Hadrians Wall

The weather en route is forecast to be dire but isn't. Even more surprising the traffic on the Edinburgh bypass is supposed to be heavy but proves to be free flowing. We're down across the border hills and through Jedburgh in no time at all. The little BMW has sharp steering and loves these fast moorland roads.

Stop #1 on our quick weekend away is the Walltown Crags section of Hadrians Wall. In summer its thronged with walkers but deep into shoulder season we have the place to ourselves and a herd of watchful sheep we clamber past on our way to the top of the hill.https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/walltown-crags-hadrians-wall/

There is a section of the Wall here that has been built right on the edge of the crag. From up on the small mile fort there's one of the best ( if not the best ) views to the barren North and the rich field systems and affluent valley farms to the South.

2,000 years ago the legions knew what they were doing. This was a sensible place to build a defensive wall. There's not much chance of raiding tribesmen clambering up the sheer rock faces and getting through to pillage civilization around here. Despite the passage of time and the constant battering of the elements there are few topographies anywhere in the world where cultures and history are as clearly delineated.

Our walk over we find a little visited site where the old Roman bridge across the river used to be.

The remains are a couple of hundred metres upriver from where a more modern bridge was built. Like the wall, it's quiet bar for grazing sheep who view us with detached interest. In fact the whole of the infrastructure around Hadrians Wall has the feeling of recovering from the stream of tourists who've been here in high season.

We've found a wonderful small hotel in a village with the no nonsense name of Wall. We ( and three other tables ) have a dinner which is the best we've had in years. The food thoughtfully prepared, skillfully cooked  and professionally served. We get the last bottle of the Herve Souhaut St.Joseph which they'd kindly set aside for us. This morning the hotel serves a very Swedish breakfast. 'The Font' is delighted to have Gravadlax  , freshly baked ( and still hot from the oven ) sourdough and cheese. Angus is happier with the croissants which are, to his delight, as good as anything he tasted in France. This truly is a surprise. There was a time not so long ago when Britain lagged in the culinary rankings. This is no longer the case. You just have to do a little homework before travelling.

Later today, when the rain lifts, we shall be heading down to a remote village called Cartmel. This has a Priory that the Reformation seems to have forgotten and is reputed to be one of Britains most magical ( and isolated ) places. Bizarrely, it also has several renowned restaurants.