Murk.

Light rain and a stiff breeze according to this mornings weather forecast. 'Murk' might be a better way of describing things. It's been wet and cold like this for the last three weeks and looks like there's at least another week of rain and chill easterly winds ahead of us. As we drive into town we pass a large German coach disgorging a group of forty or so glum looking Swabians onto the street outside chapel. A woman with a light wand is shepherding them down towards the golf course. Off season tourism can be a hit or miss affair for those involved.

The last of the new bunkers in nearing completion. In this unfinished state they look more like installation art than sand traps.

It seems bunkers have been built like this ( here at least ) in the same labour intensive way for centuries. The turf is removed from the top and then cut into thin strips that are built up, one on top of the other, to form the steeply angled side walls. Come the spring the grass will start growing and the new feature will look as if its always been there.

The Six Nations rugby tournament starts on Saturday. The savvier bar owners are offering reserved tables ( together with bar snacks and wide screen tv - drinks extra  ) at £25 a head . The offers went up on Monday and we pass three hostelries that are already sold out. The Tiger Wood / Justin Timberlake Bar is among them.

There must be some other way of collecting rubbish in medieval town centres. I know narrow streets and small courtyards don't lend themselves to modern commerce but the sea gull resistant bins outside the fish and chip shop are just plain ugly. You don't see this in Oxford or Cambridge - or do you ? How do other places deal with commercial waste ?

Expanding cities:https://www.worksinprogress.news/p/many-victorian-cities-grew-by-tenfold

Birds:https://birdhistory.substack.com/p/were-not-sending-our-best

What does this say ? :https://www.edelman.com/newsroom/richard-edelmans-6am-blog/insularity-next-crisis-trust

Brexit a decade on  :https://www.historytoday.com/archive/behind-times/brexit-britains-forever-war

The sound of Venice :https://youtu.be/aXBWrNN64z8?t=5

China :https://nbarkin.substack.com/p/watching-china-in-europe-february

Stars.

In the good old days you booked a hotel and that was that. Now a morning is spent trying to communicate with the hotel in Lisbon about arrival times, passport numbers, pillow options and restaurant reservations. You'd think this could easily be done by e-mail but it seems nothing in Portugal is that simple. We are bombarded with messages. This whole process, a young lady at the front desk informs me, is to ' ensure a smooth and seamless guest  experience'. I bite my tongue. The young woman suggests sending a car to meet us but when told the price Angus says we'll take a cab. As an aside TAP, the Portugese airline, is to be acquired by Air France. This, for anyone who tries to make an online reservation for two seats together, cannot come a moment too soon. Their systems have a certain archaic charm.

We look up and the rain clouds have parted. There are stars to be seen ! Our walk from the car to the theatre for the evening performance completed under Mediterranean skies.

When we head back to the car afterwards the streets are wet. That parting in the clouds must have lasted for all of half an hour before the rain returned. The owner of the Italian restaurant remains hopeful that al fresco dining will become a February thing. I'm not sure that even the students are other worldly enough to try sitting outside at this time of the year.

We order an Indian take away. Take aways here are designed for the mega healthy  student appetite. One portion would happily have satisfied both of us. We briefly toy with the idea of eating in the restaurant but it's full, the noise levels are stratospherically  high and the average age of the diners is somewhere well south of twenty - all of whom are conducting conversations with friends six tables away.

A most un-Presbyterian message projected onto the wall of the old town hall.

'The Fonts' favourite store in town is having a sale. Some sales are understated affairs. This is a particularly understated affair.

Life in these northerly parts remains quiet.

Some French history I'd never heard of :https://www.worldhistory.org/article/2797/ball-of-the-burning-men/

All over the news but I'm not sure what to make of this. It seems rather alarming :https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2026/01/ai-agents-now-have-their-own-reddit-style-social-network-and-its-getting-weird-fast/

Lab grown meat :https://sentientmedia.org/how-to-explain-lab-grown-meat/

More on Ireland :https://www.thefitzwilliam.com/p/most-irish-foreign-aid-never-leaves

Our local Professor of International Relations remains unhappy :https://phillipspobrien.substack.com/p/no-the-guardrails-are-not-holding

An opinion .

 " It's a strange combination :  intelligence without knowledge ". The former Prime Minister of Eire has published a book 'Speaking my mind' about his time in office. His views on the current American President are some of the most interesting  we've read. Another piece of the psychological jigsaw ?

A very February morning on the beach. For once it's not raining. The church elder and his wife see us and wave. They think January was the wettest month they've ever known. Probably twenty runners pass us by - all female students. Males , it seems, do not do Monday mornings.

Not a light on in the hugely expensive apartment block behind the R&A clubhouse. Many of the owners jet in for two weeks golf in July and then jet off again. For much of the year it stands empty. The duplex  apartment under the cupola enjoys views across the first and last tees and is said to be the most expensive in Scotland.

Up the hill the Catholic chaplaincy is having a major refurbishment. Piles of 1950's era cupboards are piled up outside the front door. The renovation is long overdue. I'm glad to see that central heating is being installed. Someone in the church hierachy seems to have decided that piety and warmth can go together. Generations of students to come will thank them.

The ongoing restoration of the fountain seems to have restarted after an extended  Christmas pause. Workmen are busy putting up yet more fencing this morning.

This is beautiful but so is the estimated price :https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/master-works-on-paper-from-five-centuries/young-lion-resting

Couldn't work out why one of these caught my attention in town. Looking at pictures back at home I can see that the rear wheel is 'unique' in not having any spokes - which is pretty cool particularly if you're twenty years old and can still enjoy such things :https://www.vergemotorcycles.com/uk_en/

Scottish food :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZ3GjAe6ku4

How interesting . What use will it be put to?:https://www.rochester.edu/newscenter/unsinkable-metal-tubes-superhydrophobic-surfaces-691642/

Portugese politics :https://cepseu.substack.com/p/in-portugal-a-48-year-long-dictatorship

A smile that's infectious.

It remains miserably wet although not as cold as it has been. In weather like this the students, sensibly, opt to lie in. Parking this morning is a doddle. The days are also getting longer. By eight am the daylight has almost started. 

The Lemon 'Love'  Sponge reappears in the bakers window. Perhaps a homewards bound church goer will pick it up after the morning service ?

An old fashioned Tallow Soap display at the farm shop. Lavender Honey and Wildflower and Barley are among the scents on offer. These will be popular with the locals.

Dancing Westie shortbread tins in the souvenir shop nest to Starbucks.  If I had to buy a tin of shortbread this would be the one I'd opt for. The souvenir shops are a constant source of surprise. Who dreams these things up ?

Have started to read this. It's had  good reviews:https://www.charlesglass.net/a-history-of-modern-syria-the-people-at-the-heart-of-their-own-story/ A young Down Syndrome lady does the super early morning shift at the booksellers. She has a cheerfully efficient air and has a smile that's infectious.

Shakespeare never grows old. The most brilliant thing seen this week ( and possibly this year so far ). The Irish accent helps :https://substack.com/@augmentedman/note/c-203839810

The Maxwell Quartet were in town to give a concert and then spent Saturday doing  'Master Class' sessions with the students. This little piece was never so beautifully played :https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=OxxNPuFuMMM

Channeling our Quiet Eye:https://bigthink.com/neuropsych/quiet-eye-training/

What is going on in China ? :https://trackingpeoplesdaily.substack.com/p/pla-daily-editorial-on-purge-of-zhang

How bakers cope with 3am shifts :https://cakezine.substack.com/p/how-bakers-survive-winter-mornings

Ready for action

That's January pretty much done and dusted. Where did the time go ? To say it went by quickly would be an understatement. Between Greenland, Epstein, Iran, Minneapolis, shutdown, Ukraine, more Epstein, threatening Canada and  the end of NATO there's been enough drama to fill a whole year. Here in sleepy St Andrews the arrival of heart shaped 'Love' biscuits in the bakers adds our own touch of excitement to a hectic month. 

The bakers window also features a lemon sponge with 'Love' written in pink lettering, some triple layer ' I love you' chocolate sponges and half a dozen chocolate coated marzipan strawberries. In the far corner three fudge doughnuts in the shape of a heart can be seen. Ideal sustenance for the hungry lover rushing off to anatomy 101. In a town where nothing ever happens the changing seasons seasons provide all the excitement you need.

The local white van men are unimpressed by the bakers fancy offerings. They're parked up en masse outside Greggs for their pre-work coffees and sausage rolls. You can tell the ex-military among them. They reverse in so that they're ready to drive off into action at a moments notice. A number of drivers have moved the no parking bollards and placed them in front of their vans. They'll put them back when they go. That says everything you need to know about Scots psychology.

There are lights on in some of the lecture theatres but the rain ( which has been constant for the last week and looks as if it's here for most of next week too ) seems to be deterring both students and tourists.

The person that puts out the memorial flowers has already been busy. A young thrush pauses and watches us wander by.  This is, as you can perhaps tell, a quiet time of the year.

How many people are there ?:https://davidoks.blog/p/a-lot-of-population-numbers-are-fake

More food for thought :https://novum.substack.com/p/first-contact-with-america

I think this is probably a good thing. If you like snakes you might disagree :https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/cannibalism-among-snakes-is-far-more-widespread-than-previously-thought-180988078/

What will they think of next ? :https://thedebrief.org/beyond-mres-the-u-s-army-is-testing-3d-printed-food-for-the-battlefield/

That phones for kids thing again :https://substack.com/home/post/p-186087964

The Guardian reviews a film. Guess one star is better than none  :https://www.theguardian.com/film/2026/jan/30/melania-review-trump-film-is-a-gilded-trash-remake-of-the-zone-of-interest

A fun night.

'Meet the Buchanans' was a delight. We thought it might be a Scottish remake of that Sacha Cohen movie Borat but wasn't. The director deftly allowed the viewer to make up their own mind about the millionaire landowners. The two lucid American ladies, the knowledgeable Scottish tartan weaver, the skilled young stone mason and the emotional Mexican tequila maker ( with a better claim to the title than the new incumbent ) were all figures out of Thackeray. The dogs of the family formed a Greek chorus with their own cynical and sometimes bored view of events and came off as the stars of the show. It would have been so easy to satirize or parody the pretentiousness but the whole thing was carried off with a gentle grace and kindness. The co-director was witty and answered questions afterwards with a disarming charm. We enjoyed ourselves. A wet Scottish January evening well spent.

At the scene of the robbery there's little sign of the excitement that has recently taken place. Closer examination shows that the glass on a side door has been replaced. Todays local paper should give us an indication of how the police ' are proceeding with their enquiries '.

The Six Nations rugby championship now being advertised. Some of the bars are already reserving tables for the Scotland matches. Snack menus from £18 a head are being offered. One enterprising landlord has already sold out and is no longer taking reservations. When it comes to the important things in life like rugby the students prepare well in advance.

If the pre-school selection in the bookstore window is anything to go by there can be no doubting where you are.

The bakers side window is now offering a range of Valentines chocolate boxes. Inside there's no sign yet of Valentines biscuits. These will probably wait until the last of the Burns Night variety have been sold.

This being practised in chapel this morning. Modern but strangely peaceful :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NWd0D1j_YE&list=RD0NWd0D1j_YE&start_radio=1

More on Penguins. 0% in Greenland ( it's the wrong end of the globe) :https://x.com/theepicmap/status/2016583700608405584

Nothing new in these differences ? :https://www.sciencenorway.no/children-and-adolescents-digital-teknologi-gender-and-society/girls-and-boys-live-different-digital-lives-according-to-researchers/2606377

Greenland is a treasure trove :https://theconversation.com/greenland-is-rich-in-natural-resources-a-geologist-explains-why-273022

The East German film and a robbery.

Last night we go to a screening of an East German movie shot in Bulgaria in 1953. The man at the box office tells us it's a Stalinist-era classic. " It stars Konrad Wolf " said in a tone of voice that implies we should know who he is. Afterwards a professor from the University of Leipzig  gives a brief over view of the finer points of the script. This is what you might call 'intense' and extremely detailed. The sell out audience of nineteen year olds and German faculty sat spell bound. Tonight we are going to a screening of 'Meet the Buchanans ' which may be less worthy but will hopefully be lighter. We're expecting it to be one of those fly on the wall critiques of pretentiousness :https://www.screen.scot/film-in-scotland/made-in-scotland/film/meet-the-buchanans . We've taken the decision that at least twice a week ( weather permitting )  we will go to one of the events that take place in the quieter fringes of this small university town. If you're going to retire to a place you might as well make use of what's on offer.

After a week of constant rain the fields on the way out to the heron pond are decidedly water logged.

Pot plants on sale outside the delicatessen. Students are big buyers of pot plants. Most of the plants won't make it to the end of the semester.

Students on the beach this morning. They are standing in a circle laughing. They're there when we arrive and in the same place when we leave. 

Angus goes for a haircut. The usual Turkish gentleman who communicates with me monosyllabically isn't there. Another, younger gentleman has taken his place. The standard instruction ' Not too short ' is given - and ignored.  Since I was last there they've installed small television screens in front of each chair. These play 'Scenes of Turkey ' on loop. I enjoy a trip down the Bosphorous on a ferry before the camera shifts suddenly and biliously to wide angle drone shots of the beach at Bodrum.

There has been a robbery. The golf club maker on the road between the cashmere shop and the good restaurant has been burgled. The local paper tells us the perpetrators were a 'professional gang who fled the scene in a black Range Rover' :https://scottishgolfnoticeboard.com/Home/NewsDetails?newsid=1041  The older villagers view this as another sign that the world is descending into chaos. Angus wonders how many golf clubs can be stolen and loaded into the back of a Range Rover in the space of five minutes. Four or five sets at most ? This sounds less like the work of a Medellin drug cartel setting up their base here and more like some opportunistic thievery by some lads from Dundee with plans to 'shift them' from the car park of their local bar.

Some trumpet music :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEQ7Q0YyQqE&list=RDjEQ7Q0YyQqE&start_radio=1

'The' place for lobster rolls  in Milan. Somewhat bizarrely Milan is big on lobster rolls :https://louisvuitton.ristorantedav.com/en/homepage/

Penguins:https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/rockhopper-penguins-athleticism-makes-them-daredevils-animal-world-will-warming-climate-slow-them-down-180987846/

This seems sensible :https://www.noahpinion.blog/p/no-china-doesnt-plan-1000-years-ahead