Wall Brown butterflies.

The Sand Martins are back and so too are the Swallows. A dozen of the former and half a dozen of the latter are wheeling above the courtyard as we head off on our morning walk. We're up early. It's the time of year when the fierce northern sun manages to find any chink in the curtains. This renders sleep impossible. It's light enough to read by four. This may explain why the farmer has already been at work for the last two hours. He stops his tractor and wanders over to tell us to look out for some small Wall Brown butterflies sun bathing on the wild roses near the potato barns. " Any idea when this bloody war's going to end ?" he asks. Seems the price of diesel for his tractors has nudged up again and he's wondering whether to top up his farm fuel tanks while he still can. We still have two thirds of our heating oil left but I might join the farmer in arranging a 'top up'. Right on cue the BBC six am news bulletin tells us that Senator Lindsey Graham thinks that Iranian energy infrastructure should be bombed  - again.

Buses and trains now starting to fill up with students heading home. For a lucky minority exams are done and dusted. As the week progresses the gentle trickle of homeward bound students will turn into a flood.

Thousands and thousands of razor clams washed up on the shore. They run in a strip three or four yards wide all along the two mile length of the beach. The crows and gulls are delighted with such a tasty and accessible breakfast.

For those students taking exams the weather has been annoyingly perfect. Today seems set to be another beautiful day.

With the students going it will soon be much easier to find a table at the pavement cafes. Cut throughs that are usually ( and annoyingly ) blocked with nineteen year olds rushing off to lectures are now deserted. By contrast local restaurants are now full with young lovers splurging out and having a romantic dinner together before heading home for the summer. Last night the calm of the fish restaurant is shaken by one young man trying to reassure his girlfriend that ' the next four months will rush by '. This insight is not well received.

The house that always has fresh flowers in the window has a white theme this morning.

If only all graduation speeches were like this :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSYEDc7-Ah0

An English garden re-opens :https://www.gardenmuseum.org.uk/benton-end/visit-the-walled-garden-at-benton-end/

Reverting to form.

The life of a 19 year old in St Andrews is not all exams. There is plenty of room for some high jinks :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ngj2fJOAiBw  The dog walkers at the 1:20 mark look quite perplexed. 

The weather in May has been wonderful but now it's reverted to form. Since five this morning the wind  has been blowing from the North in one of those endless gusts that doesn't pause for breath. In most places the squalls ease off every so often but not here. Faced with this unrelenting tempest the sea below The last wee house before Denmark has worked itself up into an angry mood. Waves thud against the rocks and spray scuds up into our faces. The gannets love it. We stand and watch them - and the cormorants and shags - diving for fish. They circle, rise and then plummet deep down into the water, wings pressed hard against their bodies. Despite it being barely six o'clock there are three French minibuses parked out by the village hall. They belong to a travel company that specializes in walking tours of Scotland. Their clients have been dropped off seven miles away on the coastal path and the friendly young staff are preparing breakfast in readiness for their arrival in an hour or twos time. The village hall looks very grand with  trestle tables, chairs and a portable six ring gas stove. The croissants, I note, come from Marks and Spencers. The village hall  'facilities' are getting a thorough spring cleaning. 

The Hebridean sheep in their long coats are oblivious to the cold. They graze from one end of the paddock to the other without so much as looking up to see who, or what, we are. The females have all been moved to pastures inland leaving thirteen grumpy males to keep the grass under control.

Down to the fish shop. Lemon Sole, monkfish and halibut will see us through to mid-week. We were going to buy some langoustines but they've just come off the boat and are waving their claws in a way that says they're still very much alive.

Back in the village the calves on the village green are getting braver.  Two of them wander over to greet us. Methinks that local mothers, taking their children off to nursery school, have taken to stopping by with a carrot ... or two.

Events in London maybe crazy but life in a small Scottish North Sea village does its level best to remain calm and unchanging.

The spark that makes us different :https://press.princeton.edu/ideas/the-night-humans-learned-to-sleep-together

Maybe you need to be an astrophysicist to enjoy this :https://www.centauri-dreams.org/2026/05/15/przybylskis-star-still-bizarre-after-all-these-years/

Nearly blowing up the Statue of Liberty :https://www.military.com/german-spies-blew-up-new-york-harbor-lady-libertys-torch-never-reopened

Remembrance as art form :https://iveyredding.substack.com/p/in-the-garden

A susbtack with snippets of poetry - some beautiful. I shall dip into again as the week wears on :https://substack.com/@coralwarmth

Migratory routines.

A beautiful Friday night. The pavement cafes busy with youngsters enjoying a drink or two in the late evening sunshine. Star crossed lovers sit staring into each others eyes before they face the sweet sorrow of being parted for the summer vacation. Tearful hand holding is one of the migratory routines particular to small college towns the world over. We've been invited to a talk on the Gulf War. The lecture theatre is packed to the rafters with earnest students. We, as oldies, have reserved seats on the front row. The speaker says that the world is running a deficit of 14 million barrels of oil a day and that something must give in the next three to four weeks. There may be a 'convulsion' in the price of oil. 'Convulsion' is said in a tone of voice that makes it clear that this is something extremely unpleasant. The students ask probing questions which hints that they would make a much better job of running the world than later generations. Their thoughtfulness always makes me feel optimistic. By the end of the Q&A we're still unsure whether the war is close to being resolved. Certainly, the trip to China didn't bring any relief in this matter. I shall keep the tank at least three quarters full of petrol.

One of the village gardens has turned into a mass of bluebells. Can anything cry out 'I'm in Scotland ' as much as a garden full of bluebells ?

Something small and delicate and exotic  is growing in the grass near the potato field. It looks to have seeded here by chance. We pause to admire it. The village is about to enjoy a brief but exceedingly colourful summer as the wild flowers burst into bloom. The farmers wife  is taking the 17 year old son into Edinburgh shopping.  It has suddenly struck them both that the weather in America might be hotter than it is here in Scotland. The elder brother - who is also off to the World Cup - will meet them for lunch on Thistle Lane. He's just had his 19th birthday and is in the middle of end of term exams and is feeling 'hard done by'.

A squall blows in from the North Sea. It arrives just as we make it back to the car.  A young couple are up early having their wedding photos taken before they tie the knot in chapel at 10:00 am. The groom has to help the brides dress from billowing upwards in the wind. He plonks his hand firmly on her backside. This is perhaps not the most decorous of looks as they wait for the traffic lights to change.

This early the golfers waiting to tee off can't get a drink at the nearby hotel but they can get a cup off coffee. Titleist baseball caps are this years 'must have' golf accessory. They are everywhere and I mean everywhere.

The strawberry hut is now open. In the summer we live on strawberries. At the moment they are at their start of season best. We still miss the savoury flavour of the Gariguettes in France.  They weren't better, just different.

The Birdman of Oswiecim. Interesting but should this house be used for exhibitions ?  :https://archer.counterextremism.com/

Poor mice :https://www.sciencenorway.no/dental-health-drink-natural-science/a-researcher-gave-mice-unlimited-coca-cola-heres-what-happened/2663159

Shocking. 21st century and there's not a single woman to be seen at the table:https://x.com/BrigidLaffan/status/2054933606376583204

The way the world sees it :https://time.com/article/2026/05/15/trump-xi-us-china-summit-analysis/

Fondant fancies.

The UK's political crisis continues to entertain - but not in a good way.  A number of politicians have put themselves forward to replace the current Prime Minister but none of them have deigned to tell us how they will deal with inflation or debt or the lack of  growth. We're back to that old ' Trust me. I'll sort it out on the night ' style of governance. Of course its not just our politicians who entertain. On the local radio we learn that Americas FBI Director has been on a business trip to Hawaii. While there he went on a 'VIP Snorkel' of the sunken battleship the USS Arizona. It seems that a group of veterans think diving on a wreck that contains 900 graves is 'vulgar and cheap'. This is the first time either of us has ever heard the term 'VIP Snorkel ' and our breakfast time conversation detours into an analysis of what sets apart the  VIP option from a mere 'Snorkel'.

Groups of forlorn tourists wandering around town as we pass through on our morning constitutional. One group is led by a guide with an orange flag. Another follows a woman holding a blue flag and wearing enormous gold framed sunglasses. Both guides have cigarettes dangling from their lips. Neither seems to be enjoying life. They must have left Edinburgh on the dot of six so this lack of enthusiasm is perhaps understandable. 

As we get near the language tells us the orange group are Spanish, the blue group Italian. Both guides follow the less is more approach to sightseeing - duomo, capilla, universidad - barked out, staccato style, as each of the towns sights are passed. Sights of martyrdom generate more interest and arm waving. Stragglers are told to keep up. Starbucks ( and its facilities ) is soon full of Madrilenos trying to warm up.

The bakers 'Festival of Chocolate' is in full swing. In the main window Chocolate Belgian Biscuits share the spotlight with Chocolate French Cakes. I bought two of the French Cakes earlier in the week and can report that they have a memorably high sugar content. Why they are described as French cakes is a mystery. They are closer to being super sweet fondant fancies. It should also be noted that the word 'fondant' implies that the filling has a continental lightness that these more solid Scottish examples disdain.

For true chocoholics the side window has a display of  YumYums, cupcakes, doughnuts and some industrial looking Pain au chocolat. With the students in the midst of exams any and everything sells out within minutes of it being put on the shelves.

Back out in the village the farmer is about to plant brassicas in the field by 'The Fonts' cabin. He launches into a long description about crop rotation and phosphate levels in the soil. As he talks yellow hammers, corn buntings and wrens flit in and out of the wild roses that clamber over the old dry stone field walls. 

The ultimate British dining car :https://www.belmond.com/trains/europe/uk/belmond-british-pullman/celia

Opening just in time for lovers of Burgundy heading off on holiday :https://chateaulacommaraine.com/en

The Chelsea Flower Show lifts its ban on gnomes :https://www.rhs.org.uk/shows-events/rhs-chelsea-flower-show/news/2026/gnome-ban-lifted

Europe v US :https://www.noahpinion.blog/p/yes-europeans-are-poorer-than-americans

The White House Director of Communications posts this unusual photograph. The world of diplomacy is changing :https://x.com/StevenCheung47/status/2054325027659448711

A bridge and what could have been a travel agency.

The slow motion political assassination of Britains Prime Minister dominates the news here.  So far it's all been a bit Et tu Brute but without a dagger. Perhaps that will change today. To jolly things up the BBC plays a sound clip of the American President emerging from a two hour session with President Xi . He informs us that this is ' the biggest and most fantastic summit the worlds ever seen . It's so big I can tell you that in the States no one is talking about anything else '.

This estate agent style hyperbole causes us to  wonder if we should keep a small pied a terre in Edinburgh. We used to have a rambling old flat at the top of the Mound . You can see it just to the immediate left of the castle in this photo. It was unusual for having a Georgian wig cupboard. We rarely used it. In August the Edinburgh Tattoo was held on the castle esplanade and the noise and crowds used to drive us crazy. The military police would diligently search the take away pizza boxes or delivery vans for explosives. This consigned us to cooking at home for the duration. 

There's a little known entrance to Waverley station that leads out towards a side road onto Calton Hill. This is a part of town tourists seldom see. Facing anyone who walks this way is the Regent Bridge. It was  built as a memorial for those who fell in the Napoleonic wars and spans a large deep volcanic gully. It was , in its day, prohibitively expensive to build and subject to huge cost over runs. I'd bet not one in a thousand folk who walk along the road above know that they're crossing a bridge.

The Starbucks on George Street has an interesting 1970's era frontage with five brass sculptures mounted on triangular granite walls. The brass figures seem to be a strange combination of Jacobite Highlanders and native American Indians. This modernity is out of place in the New Town but it is, in its own way, a quite wonderful piece of architecture. It's certainly too good to be a coffee shop. It has the look of an upmarket travel agency but try as I might there's nothing to be found about its original use or who the architect was. It's the sort of architecture you can walk by a hundred times without noticing it. That in a sense is a measure of its success.

The beaches on the train ride home are the preserve of solitary dog walkers. Five miles outside Edinburgh and the population soon peters out as the big city retreats into the distance.

Far away from big city life mother duck continues to monitor control the footfall on the pavement outside the Shawarma House.

Something bright and exotic in bloom on the banks of the heron pond.

Just another quiet day in a small corner of Scotland. St Andrews is in full on exam mode and the streets are quiet. Two more Gulfstreams and a half dozen smaller business jets fly over The last Wee House before starting their final approach into Dundee. A reminder that the high rolling golf crowd are starting to arrive from Florida.

Spotted on a neighbouring  villages notice board :

The artist on display at the Scottish Royal Academy is Irish :https://www.artandhorseracing.com/kayla-martell#&gid=1726120867&pid=9

The Sahara reveals some surprises :https://theconversation.com/we-found-hundreds-of-huge-ancient-mass-graves-hidden-in-the-sahara-desert-281978

Tectonic movement :https://gizmodo.com/scientists-think-africa-may-be-cracking-along-a-new-tectonic-plate-boundary-2000757562

The summer exhibition

We're on an early train down to Edinburgh for the summer exhibition at the Royal Scottish Academy. It's dry and the sun is out but there's a cheeky wind that bites the ankles and quickly makes us seek the warmth of the station waiting room . We're soon joined by a group of a dozen or so American golfers heading to Gullane to play on the course there. They're nervous that the train might go without them knowing. I assure them there are only two platforms and that there will be an announcement before it's due but they treat this information with ill disguised scepticism. The more nervous among them move back out onto the platform in case the train tries to sneak through leaving them , and their golf clubs, stranded. Others, aware of the impact of cold wind on males of a certain age, stick near the facilities. The train runs on time and arrives into Edinburgh a minute early. We last see the golfers looking for the way to the cab rank.

You'd expect the summer exhibition to be packed but tourists seem intimidated by the large RSA sign hanging outside. Braver ones ask the staff at reception what the cost of entry is and seem non-plussed when they discover it's free. Most say thank you and retreat without heading towards the galleries. Maybe they just can't believe anything in Edinburgh is free.

'The Font' thinks this years exhibits are wonderful. Angus thinks there's too much of that brightly coloured installation art that will eventually find a home in the lobby of a municipal office building or hospital where it will bemuse all who come into contact with it.

Some galleries are cold and sepulchral. This one has a friendly vibe with locals walking around slowly sizing up the works they like... and those they don't.

I'm quite taken with a small bright picture of a cat watching the washing in a spin dryer. Someone else has spotted the painting and it's already got a red 'sold' sticker. 

The painter who lives at the end of the village has something on show. It too has a red sticker.

We already have a work by this artist. It catches something about the south of France but it's far too big for the down sized house. We spend a happy hour looking at the exhibits and then head off to Ardfern , the trendy wine bar, for lunch. Angus tries a glass of Uruguayan Zinfandel which the waitress says is a delight. 'Delight' is another of those words which has the elasticity to mean so many different things to different people.

On our way home we stop off at the Edinburgh branch of our local bookstore for a copy of 'What if Reform wins'. They've sold out of all their stock in St Andrews but have phoned down to Edinburgh to ask them to hold onto a copy for us. It has suddenly become a best seller. There is annoyingly no question mark at the end of the title. It turns out to be jauntily well written.

A new hotel in Venice :https://airelles.com/en/destination/venice

Latin American problems :https://www.richardhanania.com/p/why-is-latin-america-so-violent

Somewhere in New York where you can get ( a decent ) glass of wine without having to buy a bottle :https://www.aldosohmwinebar.com/about

A revolution.

The UK seems set to have its sixth Prime Minister in a decade. Somewhere along the line we've become more Italian than the Italians. With so much political turmoil taking place locally the American President doesn't feature in the morning news apart from a brief report saying he's thinking of making Venezuela the 51st state.

Bright but bitterly cold this morning. Overnight an unseasonal tongue of Arctic air has swept south towards Scotland. The horse in the field by the strawberry farm looks at us in the vain hope we've brought carrots.

There's been a revolution at the bakers. For the first time ever the familiar fudge doughnuts don't dominate their window display. This morning they've thrown caution, and tradition, to the wind and Deluxe Chocolate Doughnuts take pride of place. These are £2:15 a piece. No one behind the counter can provide a reason  why this culinary regime change has taken place.

Angus orders a whole meal loaf and two Chocolate French Cakes. What any Frenchmen would make of these is best left unanswered.

As I'm leaving I notice another new line. Chocolate and Hazelnut Swish. The Swishes will have to wait until tomorrow.

On the beach a labrador walks along the waters edge. Every so often he looks behind him to make sure his owner is still there. He ignores the squabbling crows and gulls that are fighting over washed up sprats.

The recently restored hotel on the road out to Dundee has burnt down. The entire roof has gone. It had only been open for a couple of weeks after the renovations and upgrade. The place looks very forlorn.

Laughter of the day. Hungary's new PM is sworn in and his mother forgets decorum :https://x.com/tothcsabatibor/status/2053420741949841487

Dunkin Donuts flopped in India :https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/food-news/why-dunkin-failed-in-india/articleshow/130972875.cms

Electricity in Spain is cheap :https://janrosenow.substack.com/p/spain-just-became-one-of-europes

Included ( surprisingly ) in a blog about Places of Charm. The accompanying pictures don't entice :https://www.placesofcharm.com/blog/2025/7/27/48-hours-in-riyadh-what-to-do-and-what-to-see