The new cafe.

Two weeks to Easter Monday. Less than a month and we may be ( or may not be ) flying off to see the west lake in Hangzhou. The year has picked up its pace. On Friday and Saturday nights the green Northern Lights were swirling away on the horizon over Boddin Head. Last night , when we wrap up and venture out into the garden with a glass of Pommard, there was nothing. On the radio this morning a man tells us the North Koreans have been helping the Iranians with their long range missiles. We turn the dial to the classic music channel which is a less fraught way of segueing into the new week.

Two tractors hard at work as we set off on our morning constitutional. A month ago we were averaging 12,000 steps a day. Now, with the sunshine, it's closer to 20,000. The farmer is deep ploughing the field on the left , his youngest son dealing with the field on the right. Eldest son, up from Edinburgh, drives out on a buggy with coffee and bacon rolls. The heavy rain earlier in the year has pushed their plans back and they're racing to get the sowing schedule on track by Easter.  For the younger lad the next three months bring Easter, his IB exams and then the excitement of  America and the World Cup. Life is peculiarly hectic when you're seventeen.

The elder Jack Russell is also up and about. She waddles over to see us. Her joy ( and a wildly waving tail ) makes it difficult to walk in a straight line. Younger sister is confined to the farmhouse garden while the ploughing is underway. As we walk down to the shore can hear her complaining about the unjustness of it all.

The golfers are out early. The Old Course already busy, the golf academy even more so. Local fathers and teenage sons are out getting an hours putting in before work or school.

The new cafe above the Golf Museum is now up and running. It's called The Claret and serves one of those all day menus. It doesn't open until 8:30 so we're too early to try it out today. Bacon rolls are £6 which, by St Andrews standards, is reasonable.

So starts a new week in a small quiet Scottish town where nothing ever happens.

Very Italian. Bookstore by day, cinema by night :https://giuntiodeon.it/en

Unusual fact of the day. A higher % of Sikhs in Canada than India :https://x.com/mrsunshinebaby/status/2034859082960839119/photo/1

Hadrians Wall was more peaceful than we'd thought :https://aspectsofhistory.com/hadrians-wall-strategic-masterpiece-or-monumental-folly/

Extended range.

With the troubles in the mid-east rumbling on we've taken to charging up the battery on our little BMW hybrid. One of those 'just in case ' routines. We plug it in after dinner and hey presto the next morning it's ready for the off. Slow but effective. In the winter the heater drains the battery in the blink of an eye  and we'd be lucky to make it the seven miles into town and then back on a charge. Come these balmy mornings we don't need the heater on and we can get two and possibly three return journeys to the supermarket before the petrol engine kicks in. I can remember petrol rationing books being issued in 1973 but can't recall whether they were actually put into use. In those days I had just started as a student here and had a red Saab 96 which I ( possibly alone ) thought was very svelte. Who'd ever have thought that half a century on we'd be facing a reprise of an oil embargo ? Plus ca change ... 'The Font' observes that the use of the phrase ' I can remember when ' officially indicates that I've now stopped being my father and have officially turned into my grandfather.

Sunday. Another perfect day. Not quite the 19 degrees we saw on Friday but close enough.

The weather has brought out day trippers, dog walkers and golfers. Canny visitors know to park out on the beach and then walk back into the centre. This morning they are streaming in. The town is shaking off its winter dourness and bursting into life. On the first tee the starter is in a bad mood. Three lads have registered as a four ball but are their missing their fourth companion who is nowhere to be seen. As the crowd of impatient American golfers builds up he loses his patience and tells them to tee off. ' Your colleague will just need to play through ', This is said with a finality that indicates he has little patience for students or their time keeping.

We're into the pre-Easter wedding season. All day yesterday the road outside the Catholic church was blocked off for the days events with skillfully placed no parking cones. In Starbucks we're surprised to find the place is full of young English couples. The men in tails and white tie their partners in brightly coloured wedding attire. They're waiting for their 'event' in the university chapel. Locals seem completely unfazed by this Home Counties sight.

Back at the last wee house before Denmark we stop to watch the reed buntings and yellow hammers basking in the sunshine on the old stone field walls. They are enjoying themselves. They squabble happily and incessantly.

Our bird watching comes to an abrupt end. The farmers youngest is spreading bone meal over the soon to be planted tatty field . In the absence of wind he discovers that by putting his foot all the way down he can accelerate the tractor to a speed that generates a cloud that rapidly diffuses across the furrows. We head indoors. For someone about to take his IB exams the lad seems remarkably relaxed :https://www.stleonards-fife.org/curriculum/international-baccalaureate

A public servant and brave veteran dies. Usually at times like this their dedication is recorded. I'm not quite sure what it says about society when ' Good, I'm glad he's dead ' is deemed acceptable.

Watched a bit of the Louis Theroux investigation into the manosphere on Netflix which was unsettling. This essay on the male condition appeared in the inbox this morning and is artfully and tellingly written. Blowing raspberries on giggly tummies is a phrase you don't often see :https://drunkwisconsin.substack.com/p/men-only-want-one-thing

A picture of a London tube train :https://substack.com/@wluvv/note/c-226721649?r=48ea6r

Climate weirdness :https://arstechnica.com/science/2026/03/the-us-is-looking-at-a-year-of-chaotic-weather/

Oil :https://paulkrugman.substack.com/p/talking-with-robin-brooks

Milk or dark ?

It got to 19 degrees here yesterday. That's warm for Scotland in March. In fact that's warm for Scotland at any time of the year. This morning the weather is promising more of the same. Down on the shore there's what might pass for a heat haze.

We haven't seen the Chinese man and his dog in months. They're out on the far end of the sand  this morning. We wave.  There's no sign of his Puli. We would ask if it's alright but the Chinese gentlemans English is extremely limited.

At the book store a van with a silhouette of a chimney sweep in a top hat painted on the side. This is a particularly Victorian image and not what you'd expect to see in 2026.

Inside the book shop the chimney sweep and his assistant are hard at work. Customers wander by as they lay dust sheets. I wonder how many bookstores have wood burning fires. Probably quite a few in chilly Scotland.

The flower shop on the shopping street looking spring like.

All the milk chocolate Easter eggs have gone. Dark chocolate ones remain. 'The Font' won't touch milk chocolate whereas Angus has yet to find milk chocolate that he doesn't like. On the evidence of the supermarket shelves it seems I'm not alone. Claude, improbably, informs me that 51% of chocolate eaters prefer milk and 35% dark. This is a very unsatisfying AI answer .

'The Font' speaks to the travel agent about next months long haul flight to Shanghai. " We can only hope the flights go " he says with infuriating imprecision. Our booking at the restaurant we've always wanted to try is still good :https://www.trip.com/restaurant/china/hangzhou/detail/longjing-manor-479150/  I'd reckon the chances of the trip taking place is still 50-50. Last nights missile attack on Diego Garcia seems to hint at more surprises to come.

Africa :https://kappel1.substack.com/p/africas-growth-euphoria?triedRedirect=true

Seems there was more to Rosa Luxemburg than politics :https://orbooks.com/catalog/rosa-luxemburgs-herbarium/

A new hotel in Palm Beach. It looks like every other hotel in Palm Beach. There must be a look everyone strives for :https://www.oetkerhotels.com/hotels/the-vineta-hotel/#/

Radio Scotlands Saturday morning music choice. When was the last time you heard this ? :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdKEbnS1eBE

Nae problem

Down to Edinburgh. Angus has a meeting with men in dark suits to talk about the Hungarian elections on April 12th. Expect the results to be challenged by Washington and Moscow if Orban doesn't win. This will be a big and hugely divisive issue. You can be certain a certain someone will make his views known.

The ceiling of the room we've arranged to meet in has a wonderful ceiling. 

Orvis used to make great quarter zips but they've  stopped selling in Europe and shipping from the store in Alexandria incurs eye watering customs duties. R M Williams an Australian company fills the gap :https://www.rmwilliams.com/uk/edinburgh.html  They've just opened a stylish new store on George Street. The young Australian lady behind the counter informs me is their only outlet north of the border.

Shopping finished I stop to take a look at the statue of King George IV. It tells the passer by that he visited Scotland. This seems a pretty mealy mouthed inscription. It certainly couldn't be any more 'concise'.

The train home runs on time. Back at The last wee house before Denmark the farmer and his seventeen year old are busy repairing the field drains. The lad is busy studying for his international baccalaureate exams. He's still keen to earn money for his upcoming trip to the US which is why he's operating the mechanical excavator. He tells us the exams will be ' nae problem '. His sister is at Oxford and he's thinking of following her there but somewhat bizarrely the Sorbonne is also mentioned.

We missed a lecture on Egyptian ten making 1880-1980. The good thing about a small university town is there's always three or four super-esoteric things to do of an evening.

At quarter to seven we wander down to the shore to watch the sun set behind the towers of the old town. We nearly bought a house in San Gimignano when we were looking to move to Italy but in high summer you literally can't move for visitors. Screw up your eyes and St Andrews has something of the San Gimignano skyline.

This seems unfair :https://nautil.us/the-science-is-in-no-one-likes-your-cockapoo-1279042

A sensible use for AI :https://www.theregister.com/2026/03/16/asia_tech_news_roundup/

The posties first call of the day. A parcel arrives for 'The Font' bearing one of those French things that are missed :https://verlet.fr/en/products/confiture-myrtille-sauvage

An insight into 'those' telephone calls :https://www.semafor.com/article/03/15/2026/why-and-how-everyone-is-cold-calling-the-president

Be honest. How many of these could you answer correctly ? :https://www.buzzfeed.com/daves4/apush-test-questions-fs

This is really quite remarkable. 10/10 to the Japanese PM for hiding her thoughts. Some of the comments are witty :https://x.com/kaitlancollins/status/2034665181117112807

Off to Edinburgh

We are planning to go to Asia next month. Flights and hotels were booked and paid for two months ago. Listening to the news this morning I'd reckon we'll face hefty fuel surcharges from the airline. How I wish I'd not chosen those super attractive but non-refundable 'early bird' hotel rates. 

The insurance company have sent an e-mail to tell us that our claim on the cancelled trip to Madeira is being reviewed. " A decision will be made as soon as possible but all our staff are currently extremely busy ". This doesn't fill me with hope. The use of the word 'all' in the e-mail is puzzling. 

The sun is out and it's warm. Not French Riviera warm but warm enough to feel the sun on your face. What a wonderful feeling it is after the long winter.

The parking spaces  down by the harbour are filling up. This morning we count two Italian, two German and one Slovene camper van. A retired German couple are sitting on the quayside at a fold up table and chairs as if this is the most natural thing in the world.  They are cooking bratwurst on a small portable gas stove. The local gulls are circling and eyeing up the opportunities for a smash and grab raid. The couple seem delighted when we say 'Good Morning' to them.

In town the rush to the first lecture of the day is underway. You do not want to be on the streets when 10,000 determined teens are on the move. Jedi Stormtroopers have nothing on them.

Even the outdoor coffee shack is busy. This far North people don't waste a minute of sunshine. Students and workmen intermingle but don't interact. 

We are off to Edinburgh. Lets hope the weather is as good there as it is here.

What happens if you put mayonnaise on your pizza in Italy :https://x.com/mamboitaliano__/status/2034042640623169892

Uber drivers in Cape Town :https://zimbabweland.wordpress.com/2026/03/09/zimbabweans-abroad-uber-drivers-in-cape-town/

This seems like a sensible development :https://spectrum.ieee.org/flash-radiotherapy

Bird flu :https://www.pnas.org/post/journal-club/bird-flu-can-already-get-inside-human-cells-so-why-hasn-t-sparked-pandemic

Bouillon thrives.

Another day, another tongue lashing. Seems we Brits don't 'produce' when it matters. This makes four ( or is it five ?) nights in a row where we've been singled out for criticism. Thankfully, the farmers wife is blissfully unaware that America takes a poor view of us. For the time being there is a sanity maintaining family omerta over discussion of the boys trip to the World Cup. She's keeping busy. The guest room is being spruced up for the visit of the daughters boyfriend from Jackson Hole. We quietly wonder if the boyfriend is prepared for a chaste Easter in the guest room of a draughty Scottish farmhouse ? Is there anything as 'stressful' as a meet the parents weekend ? 

Parked outside the town kirk a van advertising 'Mayo, Dressings, Sauce and Bouillon'.  This has to be one of the more specialized ancillary services on offer. It summons up pictures of Edwardian ladies retiring to their hotels after a nine holes for a restorative cup of steaming beef Bouillon. 

The super expensive apartment block that Donald Trump tried to buy and turn into a hotel ( he was unsuccessful in obtaining a loan from either of the two Scottish banks he approached ) is a hive of activity. Two large preternaturally shiny black BMW limousines are disgorging guests onto the pavement outside. American golfers and their long suffering wives are starting to arrive in time for Easter. The apartments will be busy over the summer and will then be abandoned for the better part of nine months. When I was a student the building was a female hall of residence with a ferocious battle axe of a warden who checked to ensure male visitors were gone by 9 pm. For teenage Romeos and Juliets intent on spending the night together careful planning and impeccable execution ( and furtive silence ) were vital.  Knotted sheets tied to the terrace railings provided the easiest egress. Amazing to think that  such prurience was the order of the day 50 years ago.

The days getting longer. We're out and about before the first players have started  their breakfasts. 

Across the road from the Old Course is the Golf Museum. This has a modern cafe on the first floor. For a long time it stood empty and then became a somewhat lack lustre restaurant serving burgers and fries. This morning workmen are swarming all over it. The trendy seafood restaurant has taken it over. Soon it will re-open as a modern 'lifestyle' restaurant. I'm not sure what a 'lifestyle' restaurant is but it's got to be an improvement on what's gone before. For golfers the location is about as sacerdotal as it gets. 

Picture of the day with accompanying comment :https://x.com/adefty/status/2033626526722195947

Why Roman Britain collapsed. Climate change ain't new :https://www.zmescience.com/science/history-articles/tree-climate-roman-britain-rep/

Chinese exams :https://www.forkingpaths.co/p/how-exams-drive-history

On the basis of this research it's amazing anyone comes to study in Scotland :https://www.nber.org/papers/w34944

Do unto others as you would have them do unto you

The BBC radios six am news bulletin informs us that the UK is in the American Presidents cross hairs again. Alienating close allies before finding you need them is a novel approach to statecraft. The old biblical 'Do unto others' approach to diplomacy seems to have been jettisoned.  I have considerable sympathy for the mild mannered and lawyerly British Prime Minister dealing with such 'mercurial ' counterparts.  We also learn that the planned meeting with President Xi is to be delayed ( guess that means the Kings state visit is also 'rescheduled' ) and that there is an alarming meningitis strain B outbreak among students in Canterbury. The medical expert says its confined to students in their late teens. 

Last week 'The Font' prudently arranged for a top up oil delivery .  The invoice arrives in the morning post and is 44% per litre higher than the previous shipment that was delivered in December. If we were to have the tank filled now I'd reckon we'd have to pay 70% more. Who knows what the price will be will be when the next cold spell hits ? The farmer isn't worried about fuel costs but he is worried about  fertilizer prices. He thinks the cost of food will sky rocket as the planting season approaches.

This morning the Saltire on the town hall is blowing briskly in the strong southerly wind. Usually it flutters half heartedly but today it's standing out straight. Gusts are up to 60 mph.

Down on the beach the wind is blowing the sand down from the dunes in great swirling eddies. The sand stings any exposed skin and whips against our legs. It  soon has us retreating back to the car. We weren't prepared for this.

Not a soul to be seen at the cathedral. It looks rather romantic in the sunrise. We do our requisite 10,000 steps and then head off to the warmth of Starbucks. In Portugal every cup of coffee we had was excellent. Here the coffee tends to come in large student sized servings and be akin to dishwater.  Starbucks makes the most reliable espresso. Perhaps we should try to find a shop in Edinburgh that specializes in Portugese coffee ?

The Secret Agent is on at the cinema. We think of getting tickets but reckon it will be on Netflix sooner rather than later.  We go instead to a screening of Mr Nobody which was excellent :https://carnegieendowment.org/ru/russia-eurasia/politika/2026/03/mr-nobody-oscar-criticism

Some rather fine art deco glass work in a house we pass. Many Scottish hoses are built with outer and inner doors. The outer door is left open during the day for parcels and post to be delivered. We rather like the colour on this door. There's also what appears to be a rather grand parrot cage propped up on an old settle just behind the door. 

From the Wall Street Journal. Not sure whether it's good or bad write up :https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/careersandeducation/americans-love-everything-about-this-scottish-university-except-all-the-americans/ar-AA1YH8VC  A useful reminder that there is nowhere more welcoming to Americans than Europes Celtic fringes.

Dog evolution :https://www.discovermagazine.com/ancient-dogs-started-diversifying-11-000-years-ago-long-before-the-modern-breeds-we-know-today-48819

Intriguing. The long lasting impacts of war :https://x.com/luca_repetto_c/status/2032443860022952025?s=20

Robots :https://intelligenceage.substack.com/p/inside-the-robot-mind  The videos are either great or terrifying depending on your point of view.

Airline surcharges :https://x.com/shanaka86/status/2033381706892492969