Deeply reassuring.

It's the RSPB's annual golden plover census and bird watchers from far and wide have been out and about counting our local population. The first twitchers arrive just before seven. Around their necks they carry improbably large binoculars and cameras with enormous zoom lenses. Backpacks hide thermoses full of hot coffee and Greggs sausage rolls. The more ardent have small fold up aluminium chairs:https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/golden-plover. In a world bordering on madness the knowledge that there are people who care enough get up pre-dawn to watch over small waders is somehow deeply reassuring. One man tells me they are the 'most spiritual of birds ' which is a rather more profound turn to the conversation than I'd anticipated. He goes on to say that the wild tundra by the heron pond is home to species that he doesn't see anywhere else. This years westerly winds have brought in some unexpected visitors from Canada.

The weather's turned colder. 1.5C this morning which is cold enough to deter all but the most ardent young lovers from a post party dip in the North Sea. The supermarket has salted the car park in case of ice which is another of those little signs that the year is racing on as is the first winter frost on the little cars windscreen.

In Glasgow the schools are on half term and the town is already filling up with young families here for the weekend. The ice cream shop by the cathedral has some determined six year old breakfast time customers who are enjoying themselves under the watchful eyes of adoring grandparents.

The university groundsmen have given the lawn by the chapel a very formal trim in readiness for Raisin Monday. I would say this is peak party season but a moments reflection tells me that there's half a dozen student party hot spots scattered across the year.

From the Royal and Ancient club house patio there's a grand view across the links to the beach.

We head home up the hill and past the Martyrs Monument . This serves as a  reminder that this quiet little town was once the centre of wild and violent passions. It's 16th century Taliban moment.  Experience has taught it that good order, bordering on the boring, is vastly under rated.

The Zurbaran exhibition at the Louvre :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRCpY7ZpzDE

Glass bottomed boats I can live with but glass bottomed airships ? :https://oceanskycruises.com/

Stupidity. Reading this mornings papers I come to the conclusion there's something in this :https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/about-thinking/202610/stupidity-threatens-everything

How China became rich :https://substack.com/home/post/p-220276296

The Barbara Cartland cook book :https://substack.com/@thecandlestickreview/note/c-360648917

Our local American professor writes an update. Not sure this is going to do much for Tesla sales in this part of the world:https://phillipspobrien.substack.com/p/weekend-update-207-the-us-russia

Patient detectorists.

The October weather remains remarkably bright. I'd like to say it was mild but the brisk wind says otherwise. It is however dry - exceedingly dry. The farmer tells us the water content of the soil is the lowest he's ever known. Without rain the wheat and barley seeds he's waiting to plant will fail to take root. I could be wrong but I think this is a conversation we have every year. He also informs us that his fertilizer costs have risen by 26% since the start of the Iran war. ' That's nothing compared with the price of diesel' he adds ominously. His daughter has announced that she will be going to Jackson Hole to spend Christmas with the tall American. He is not at all sure about this.

The detectorists are busy on the beach. We wonder if they ever find anything. There are two of them and they progress slowly along the shoreline. Only once in four years have we seen them pause and dig a hole in the sand to unearth something. They seem to live in eternal hope that the tide will bring in great riches. As hobbies go being a detectorist may be boring but does provide exercise and exposure to lots of fresh air. 

Some truly alarming 'ink cap' mushrooms sprouting in the grass  by the sheep field. The word 'supturating' springs to mind but is, thankfully, soon forgotten.

Uninspiring pumpkins for sale at the farm shop. All across town Halloween party season is about to kick into top gear. Driving home late last night we observed that the four feral medical students with the skeleton in their window have installed strobe lights.

The angle of the flag on top of  the town hall tells you just how 'bracing' the wind is this morning.

'Celebrity Traitors' is proving to be a hit on television. In fact it's a programme that seems to be popular with all generations and demographics. In Starbucks this morning four ladies are busy discussing last nights events. Jerry Hall is a favourite.  I'd wager that no series has been this popular since the 60's or 70's. This past week was also memorable for introducing the world to Katie Zacharia who appeared on our screens and then just as quickly left them. You have to wonder why someone who wanted to be a press secretary should have had such little understanding of the press and its workings ? The BBC tells us she believes in a conspiracy theory involving Democrats, children and pizza toppings but halfway through the segment my eyes have glazed over.

Which animal are you : https://miniphilosophy.substack.com/p/be-more-elephant-but-be-less-cat

Found in a forest in China :https://gizmodo.com/meet-d-rex-the-monster-fungus-born-in-the-wake-of-the-dinosaur-apocalypse-2000826489

The wee house in town is decorated in noughties era grays. This may be an alternative for the next once a decade makeover :https://www.littlegreene.com/bassoon

Strangest story of the week ? :https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cw8rzpl1ldkdo

Wine and apple crumble.

Now the Dunhill and Collegiate golf tournaments are over the town is fast emptying out. The tents and marquees are coming down, the television camera crews have gone and the hotels and restaurants have 'availability'. In the post this morning we receive an invitation to a dinner to be held in the R&A in April 2027. This comes as a surprise. Some people clearly like to plan well ahead.

Thursday was a day spent organizing the wine cellar in readiness for Christmas. In the process some solitary bottles are found. Where these lost delights were bought is a mystery. Most of the wine we brought with us from France has sadly now been drunk. This Pernand is one of the last hold outs. It was opened at lunchtime to give it six hours to breathe. Over dinner we agree it was 'more than acceptable '. It pains me to say that wine is a good 40% cheaper in France. The unforgiving Northerly climate here means wine has to be given plenty of time to ' s'epanouir '. 

At the bakers two apple crumble tarts are bought. These turn out to be large and extremely filling. French visitors seem bemused by Scottish bakers. American golfers by contrast love the sturdy sugar rush on offer.

In France these cream towers would be called religieuse. There the similarity ends.

'The Font' picks up the last of the strawberries from the farm by the round about. They remain delicious to the end. The supermarket may sell  English berries for the next couple of weeks but after that it's back to the woody  imports from greenhouses in the Netherlands. That's when we stop buying them.

Two Westies at Starbucks this morning. Shortly after this picture was taken they each got a tub of whipped cream. High degrees of enthusiasm and joy were intermingled as they licked up every last drop.

Tonight the students traditional mid-semester parties kick off. They will continue pretty much without a break until Monday :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIxhfkBMt24  The 18 year olds love foam fights but for those of advancing years it seems to be the sort of behaviour you' might expect to find in a Waco cult. How dare they be enjoying themselves so much and so innocently ? 

These were written up in yesterdays New York Times :https://www.dogster.com/dog-breeds/mcnab/

A Dutch Stonehenge:https://www.zmescience.com/science/archaeology/stonehenge-in-netherlands-rep/

Written by a brilliant guy at Salk in San Diego and worth reading:https://erictopol.substack.com/p/a-tale-of-two-t-cells

An important election that seems impossible to predict :https://www.timesofisrael.com/small-parties-hovering-around-minimum-vote-threshold-could-determine-israels-election/

This pretty much sums up the turning point we've reached. Oil over allies :https://www.19fortyfive.com/2026/10/the-russia-diesel-deal-is-a-strategic-mistake/

Gusty conditions.

First light. The postman delivers no less than four Christmas catalogues. You'd think the internet would make these a thing of the past but their numbers seem to increase with each passing year.

The weather wasn't great for the last day of the student golf tournament but the rain held off and it was a mild 17C.  The team from the University of Texas had a different understanding of 'mild' and were layered up for Arctic conditions. They won :https://www.golfchannel.com/ncaa/news/texas-sweeps-titles-over-valiant-host-team-at-st-andrews-links-collegiate

A word of praise for the cameraman on top of his gantry. I wouldn't want to be on top of a small swaying platform in 40 mph winds.

Down on the beach a young couple decide to go for a dip in the North Sea. They hurtle across the sand, rush into the waves and then, just as quickly, return. Considering that they're supposedly some of the brightest minds around you'd think the youngsters might have thought of bringing a towel.....or some dry underwear. Their dripping, gritty predicament only hits home when they're safely back on the cold, windy shore.

Someone has sensibly decided to turn down the water pressure in the recently ( and well ) restored fountain. The strong wind was carrying the water from the jets towards unsuspecting passers by. It now gurgles rather gushes.

The baker has shifted from golf 'treats' towards full on Halloween mode. Ghoulish viennoiserie appear in the window. Next week is a revision week so the town is getting battened down in readiness for the start of full on party season. 'Revision' is the last thing the students will do. We watch in horror as a local supermarket delivers packs of beer to the four feral boys in the student flat further down the road . We're both quietly glad they're not our immediate neighbours.

Over dinner someone describes this man as Swedens Frank Sinatra  :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4Lxh6A0aDA

Ancient cooking techniques :https://www.thetakeout.com/2277594/ancient-cooking-methods-lost-history/

A legalistic view ? :https://www.justsecurity.org/160425/fueling-russias-war-diesel-deal-international-law/

Chinas population may be smaller than imagined :https://chinareview.org/files/asset-57a85d198e7d486d8ff87b69e7c3cf80

Paragliders .

The wind has a decidedly wintry feel to it this morning. Gusts of 40 mph are expected .

A couple of paragliders are using the blowy conditions to turbocharge their take offs from the beach. They fire up their engines, take a short run into the wind and whoosh they're rising vertically into the sky. They head out over the sea and turn towards the cathedral before disappearing slowly into the sunrise.

The last day of the collegiate golf tournament. The players have now moved onto the sacred turf of the Old Course for the final rounds. One gentleman is here to watch his son play in the Washington team. He watches him tee off and then retires to a bench where quiet tears of joy flow. There are golf courses and then there's the Old Course.

Back here at the last wee house before Denmark we watch a flock of golden plovers sweep low across the corn field. Is there any thing as beautiful as a flock of plovers lit by the rising sun ? They've completed their journey down from Iceland and will over winter here. For some creatures this small windswept spot is almost tropical.

We meet the farmers wife returning from her morning  swim. She is wearing one of those heavily padded long coats that comes down to her ankles and her orange rubber swim cap. All the offspring are back at their studies and the occasional call indicates they're doing well...or if not doing well they're at least enjoying themselves.

Down on the rocks at the foot of the farm track the gulls are also enjoying themselves. They seem to have found a shoal of sprats.

'Ostentatious disrespect' the headline on todays BBC breakfast news bulletin.

The university has a professor of Theology, imagination and the arts. He wrote this piece of music. We aren't the only ones who find the dawns in this part of the world 'memorable' :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pscNTzAGVnk

If at first you don't succeed try, try again :https://www.amazon.com/Lost-Worlds-Patrick-Wyman/dp/0063256487

This was interesting :https://www.apollo.com/wealth/insights-news/insights/daily-spark/ai-building-vs-ai-buying-the-transatlantic-split

A long lost musical tuba heard on France Musique . Click on 'A ecouter' :https://www.radiofrance.fr/francemusique/podcasts/maxxi-classique/les-tubas-wagneriens-du-ring-aux-beach-boys-1484080

'Fearless' Ethel and ovine psychology.

Yesterday we went to a lunchtime showing of 'Pressure' at the cinema. With so many visitors in town I thought the screening would be sold out but there's a grand total of nine in the auditorium. I won't say it's a mature audience but we probably reduce the average age by a decade or so. The movie is pleasantly unthreatening and redemptively 'feel good' in tone. Andrew Scott is solid as the Scottish meteorologist and Brendan Fraser plays the role of Eisenhower with chest thumping gusto. Both of us agree that there's something about going to the cinema in the daylight that's every so slightly 'louche'. The cinema has opened the bar but all of the current crowd  stick to buying bottles of water.

It pours cats and dogs overnight but we're greeted with another wonderful sunrise. This run of rosy dawns must be breaking some sort of record.

Mutual of Omaha signs have sprouted on the Old Course. These visual references to Omaha somehow feel strangely exotic. The signs are carefully positioned so the tv cameras catch them in every shot. We note that all the coffee shops have long lines of coaching staff and administrators enjoying the collegiate tournament. Golf is clearly a big thing at US universities. Traffic in town is dire. Based solely on the number of large black cars with drivers I can only assume the local hotels are full and  a lot of the visitors are commuting from Edinburgh. We pass two television trucks on our way down to the beach. The trucks are jacked up on stilts.

Regular readers of the blog will recognize Ethel the fearless sheep. She wanders over to stare at us while her sisters look away. There is a whole world of under researched ovine psychology just waiting to be explored . 'Fearless' Ethel is somehow a very special sheep.

In Starbucks a woman has recycled her husbands Aran sweater into a coat for her dog. The dog is waiting impatiently for the barista to prepare a small tub of milk foam.

So passes a mid-September day in a small golf mad town in central Scotland.

Now that must have been a surprise :https://www.sciencealert.com/scientists-collected-deep-sea-rocks-they-spontaneously-caught-fire-in-the-lab

The fiercest El Nino in a millennium :https://dashboard.theclimatebrink.com/#enso

Old faithful. I wonder if a gallery selling pictures of dogs would be a commercial success ? :https://timed.mctears.co.uk/auctions/9784/mctear3-10205/lot-details/7d5cf356-f017-4d2c-83cb-b4d000e880f5

Rethinking history :https://www.tabletmag.com/sections/history/articles/leonardo-da-vinci-jewish

The best bacon roll in Scotland and Marat was here.

 

Another glorious sunrise. A horse races from one end of the beach to the other and then races back. After a longish pause it does it again. That must be a full two miles in each direction . We can feel the sand beneath our feet tremble as rider and mount thunder by. They are still ambling gently along the waters edge when we head back to the car. Perhaps they want to do it again ?

What is quite possibly the best bacon roll in Scotland can be found down the coast at The Waterfront cafe in Anstruther. The bap fresh and floury and with no less than four slices of crispy back bacon. The coffee is also very good. As bacon rolls go this is a 10/10.

A group of eight golfers from Paris are at an outside table near us. They ask if we speak English. They have found the service at the cafe to be cheerful but the local Fife accents completely impenetrable. The local waitress is as non-comprehending of  their accents as they are of hers. We sort out their breakfast orders. They also agree  that the Bacon Baps are 'superbe' .

One of the golfers is a professor at the Sorbonne. He informs us that Marat ( a key and bloody figure in the French Revolution ) gained an MD at St Andrews in 1775. This was something we didn't know. We are left to wonder why he came here ? 

The French golfers are all of the opinion that outside forces are fueling the current school unrest although some think it's driven by the left , others by the right. We leave them contentedly arguing about the upcoming Presidential elections. They hope a centrist candidate will emerge.

It's actually warm in the sunshine. Climate change seems to have extended September weather into October.

In fact it's warm enough that you could , if you tried very hard, believe you were in France.

Yesterday the headlines were of the 'stab in the back' variety. If there was a word cloud for todays news reports 'Shameful' and 'Outrageous' would be in the centre in large block capitals. The radio informs us that many European leaders are ' in a state of stupefaction '. That seems about right. This response to the worlds wealthiest man made me smile :https://x.com/SSestanovich/status/2109400936485650479

A poem to start the week. I like the line ' Let truth defuse the wrong ' :https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poetrymagazine/poems/1826399/song

The local Rangers post a passing goose video - turn up the volume :https://www.facebook.com/100087381403469/videos/566253405814390/

A magical place in Brittany :https://dsennfelt.substack.com/p/carnac-and-the-egg

I don't know who all these folks are ( the one with an eye patch I think is a Republican Congressman ?) but they seem smart, polite and courteous.  Gilets have clearly become a male fashion staple in Washington.  Let's hope they're listened to :https://youtu.be/DKX0aYLZk-c?t=158

An author I'm only now discovering :https://jungindien.in/blog/the-life-and-times-of-nirmal-verma