Saturday, July 11, 2026

Sea fog

Yesterday evening a haar slowly starts to roll in from the sea. By seven there's an impenetrable wall of thick fog that separates us from the rest of the village. It has a brooding Hitchcockian noise absorbing density to it. The temperature falls and its soon decidedly nippy. This  puts paid to any hope of dining outside. We start to watch 'Bosch'  an old detective series on Amazon. It has a rather good plotline and is ( so far ) devoid of the murderous 'pile them high ' mayhem that propels many in this genre along.

This morning the sea fog has largely lifted. We meet the farmer. England are playing Norway this evening and he's loading up the village hall fridge with cans of Tennants lager. A large turnout of Viking supporting fathers is expected.  Eldest son is taking the Land Rover Discovery down to Kirkcaldy to have the rear wing repaired after his father reversed it ( again ) into a street lamp in town. He's going via the car wash to get the worst of the mud off it before the service department opens. " The car was a wee bit dirty " says the farmer with that clinical level of understatement that farmers employ. In eight weeks time the youngest son will be heading down to Cambridge. This, the farmer points out, is about as difficult a place to get to from Scotland  as it is possible to find. The father, perhaps wisely, is insisting on driving him down and ignoring the boys suggestion that he travel down alone and spend a night ( or two ) in a hotel in London. We both agree the A1 is a dreadful road.

The students have long gone but there's a big pick up in the number of visiting golfers. Helicopters from Edinburgh ferry the wealthier overnight arrivals up to their hotels. What takes an hour and a half by car takes just quarter of an hour in  a chopper. 


The seals out in the estuary are untroubled by humans. This is the time for lying on their backs and letting their bellies soak up the sun.


By seven am the first tour groups are stopping off on their way to the Highlands. Spanish, Italian and what we think is Serbian are all being spoken in Starbucks.  The Polish Barista takes this in his stride. The queue for the loos spills out into the cafe.


The golf course employs an army of ground staff. This morning the electric golf carts are buzzing away like a swarm of angry hornets.

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