Sunday, September 6, 2026

Old traditions.

I don't think I've ever seen the town so busy. On Saturday afternoon a mixture of Labor Day golfers arriving from Edinburgh airport in their rental cars meet parents dropping off their teenagers at their dorms. Add in the European tourists in their motor homes and a traffic jam of Biblical proportions ensues.  We're supposed to go to hear a former Prime Minister read excerpts from his new book but finding a parking place proves difficult. We head home and enjoy a glass of 2019 Chateau L'Evangile in the garden as the sun sets. This is probably the last night for six months a while that it will still be warm enough to do so. The day ends with South Africa beating New Zealand in a edge of seat rugby match.


A group of lady golfers from Calgary are watched by some Italian tourists and a few student girls. The Canadians golfers are a cheerful bunch. There are more Canadian flags flying around town around this year than last. In these undemonstrative parts that may quietly say something.


As of tomorrow morning Chapel will be open for morning prayers. Male students for some reason almost never seem to appear before ten. However, the smarter boys will soon discover that morning prayers attracts lots of  girls who might actually talk to them. By the end of the week it will be standing room only. Doubly so when free biscuits and coffee are being offered. 


'In the beginning' a suitable text for the first Sunday of Freshers week. After the sermon the newbies will put on their red woolen gowns and process down to the end of the pier and back. This is probably the most filmed of the old traditions. A couple of thousand students will be watched by a cohort of dedicated  parents :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF8Xs2W7BLM  . If nothing else these old traditions serve as excellent boy meet girl ice breakers. Perhaps that's why they've survived for so long . Wiser parents will not outstay their welcome and will quickly be on the road south.


In the basement I find an old map of Scotland showing the German Sea. After the Battle of Jutland in 1916 anti-German sentiment became so strong the name was changed to the North Sea and so it has remained. Some name changes are popular and last. Others don't stand the test of time .

Saturday, September 5, 2026

Continuity is a greatly underestimated virtue.

Seven bees at work on the lavender beds this morning. Two weeks ago there were hundreds. Yesterday twelve. Tomorrow ?

The autumn winds are blowing from the west at 40 mph. The Gannets ride them sixty or seventy feet into the air before plunging down at right angles into the sea.  One of the young lecturers is out on the village beach with his three and five year olds. They stand and watch these dare devil divers and, when the bobble hatted youngsters are looking in the right direction, clap .

The trickle of incoming teenagers has turned into a flood. The average age of the people you pass in the street has fallen by thirty, possibly forty, years. Some of the incomers look barely old enough to be out on their own. A high proportion appear to be having the time of their lives. Others seem petrified. Most have an air of slight bewilderment. They move around in the safety of groups. Proud parents bustle proprietorially around. Mothers get weepy.  Younger siblings wonder why they've been dragged along. Fathers head to the golf course bars. This is one of lifes great generation unto generation moments.  We see three young couples holding hands in that tentative way that eighteen year olds do. This is reassuring proof that Freshers quickly get their bearings and get down to doing what Freshers always do. Continuity is a greatly underestimated and reassuring virtue.

Wedding time. 1960's era Rolls Royces bedecked with  wedding ribbons are lined up by chapel. Chauffeurs stand around in grey suits. 'The Font' notes three of them wearing pocket squares. Clearly these are 'fancy' weddings. Pipes play. From the pavement outside we hear this decidedly non-Scottish hymn being sung lustily :https://youtu.be/wD9-djEuEjM?t=171  This is standard end of ceremony fare at polite English weddings but is the first time either of us has ever heard it sung in Scotland. Turns out to be an English lad marrying an American girl so I guess it's forgivable allowable. The English guests wear tails, the Americans are evenly split between suits or kilts. A gentleman from Los Angeles ( presumably a relation of the bride ) enters  into the spirit of things by adopting a Braveheart look complete with a shield. We stand and watch this cultural melee in awe struck silence.

More European accents heard around the place this year which is a sign that things are starting to remedy themselves after the self harm of Brexit. 


Out here the farmer is still waiting for the part to arrive for the all singing all dancing cabbage harvesting machine. Next week the eldest son heads back to Edinburgh and daughter starts law school. Youngest son remains blase about heading south.

11C. A  high of 17C forecast for this afternoon. 'The Font' makes it clear that this is the time to switch on the central heating.


Weekend reading:

Eggs :https://takshashiladispatch.substack.com/p/the-curious-case-of-the-egg

Unusual research from London :https://www.qmul.ac.uk/news/latest-news/2026/science-and-engineering/se/chimpanzees-have-accents-too-study-finds.html

Developments on Saturn :https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/a-mysterious-decagon-unexpectedly-appeared-around-saturns-south-pole-the-ten-sided-shape-seems-to-be-a-wave-in-the-atmosphere-180989449/

Horrifying and infuriating. What are we doing to the planet ?:https://gizmodo.com/australia-is-evacuating-an-antarctic-base-so-no-one-has-to-watch-thousands-of-seals-die-2000807054

Friday, September 4, 2026

What a sunrise

3 large Gulfstream jets fly low over the courtyard before turning on final approach into Dundee. Labor Day brings with it some big spending Americans determined to make a long weekend of it.

The dawn comes up like thunder.  If I saw the sky looking like this in December I'd know for sure snow was on the way but today the weather is calm and mild.

By the time we've made it down to the beach the sun has risen through the clouds and the light has developed that northern latitude softness.


Christmas pudding appears on the shelves in the supermarket.


Angus isn't the only one who has detected that winter is on the way. Is having Christmas Puddings on sale in early September some kind of record ?

Thursday, September 3, 2026

The incident.

On the news this morning we learn that the American Vice President has shared his belief that " I'm doing as much of Gods work as possible and if that leads to the end times then I'm ok with that ". A self styled friend of the VP is interviewed. He informs us that 'On matters of immigration JD is more in touch with Catholic doctrine than the Pope'. The interviewer lapses into silence at this point.

Still no sign of the replacement part for the cabbage harvesting machine. The Dutch manufacturer has never known a machine break down so soon after being bought. The inference is that it's the farmers fault . This is making relations between the distributor and the farmer somewhat antagonistic toxic fraught.


There's a group of Japanese teenagers standing outside the front door of the wee house in town filming a group of flustered American retirees who are shouting and arguing. A woman is calling a man in the drivers seat of a mini van 'dumb as a box of rocks' while a man in the back of the van is loudly telling the driver to 'get out of here '. A gentleman from San Bernardino has attempted a U turn and misjudged both his speed and  the length of the Mercedes . He's hit the back of the little BMW and lost two hub caps in the process. Under stress he's pressed all the buttons on the Mercs dashboard and now the satellite emergency location system is emitting a klaxon like noise not unlike that you hear in movies involving the melt down of  a nuclear reactor. 

I introduce myself as the BMW's owner. 'Oh' he says in a tone of voice that makes it clear that Angus is the last person he wants to see. The conversation starts with ' I'm not used to driving on the wrong side of the road ' before sharing, with a surprising degree of candour, his thoughts about driving overseas. His wife, who is still shouting, finds their rental agreement. I phone the  company in Edinburgh who ask me to send through some photos. Five minutes later they're back on the phone saying they'll pay for the repairs and provide us with a rental car in the interim. A  replacement van for the Mercedes driver will be arranged. The drivers wife finally calms down. I reassure them that the damage is superficial, that they don't need to report it to the Police and that they should just go back to their hotel and relax. They are surprised all the paper work has been taken care of. The drivers view on 'overseas' driving regulations remains unchanged.

This morning the insurers body shop was on the phone at seven asking for more photos and for some dates when they can work on the car. " Looks like cracks in at least four body panels so better allow five or six days " says a man who seems to enjoy his work. The insurance companies have been efficient and easy to work with. Who would ever have expected that ?  

Wednesday, September 2, 2026

A glut of cherry tomatoes.

The weather proving to be very Scottish. Bright sunshine one minute, desultory wind and rain the next. The last of our visitors has gone so today will be spent with the cleaning ladies getting the wee house in town ready for the new Texan tenants who may, or may not, be arriving tomorrow.


More and more youngsters showing up in the cafes. Not yet a flood ( that will come on Saturday and Sunday with the arrival of the Freshers ) but definitely a strong trickle of fresh faces appearing. Everyone seems happy.


Twelve hardy bees on the lavender beds this morning. Above us flocks of honking geese continue to fly over on their way south. There's not as many of them this year but this is based on observation not scientific foundation. The starlings are now turning their attention to this seasons rose hips which seem particularly lustrous.

The souvenir shop windows offer visitors four major options:

1) Loch Ness monsters ( sometimes mixed up with green non-aquatic dinosaurs ) 

2) Smiling Highland Cows .

3) Westies ( or any dog that is white and fluffy ) and Scotties wearing a tartan bunnet and a badge with the word 'Mac' printed on it. 

4) 'Plaid' Golf club covers for golfers wishing to demonstrate to their fellow country club members that they've been to ( but not necessarily played ) the home of golf.

There is also a fifth option which is any ( or all of the above ) printed on a mug.

Scotland is a veritable super power in the trinket market. I'd wager that 90% of these products are made in Chengdu and the other 10% in Bangladesh. 


This morning the cheesemonger has gone overboard with its offering of exotic cherry tomatoes. It seems that the heatwave on the continent has impaired the output of large tomatoes ( anything above 35C and their yield plummets as the plants self regulate and drop their flowers to save water ) but boosted the small tomato crop. The things you learn on a start of day walk.


Overheard outside the music centre some Chinese music :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCthiLvVh7A

Scroll through to get the full experience. Our ancestors would marvel at our good luck :https://ordinaryabundance.com/

How long before a series based on this appears on Netflix ? :https://www.science.org/content/blog-post/alleged-dimethylmercury-incident

For anyone who has ever visited East Anglia its hard to believe there was a time when it wasn't flat :https://gizmodo.com/scientists-discover-a-hidden-supervolcano-buried-beneath-england-2000805057

Stonehenge :https://www.bbc.co.uk/culture/article/20260828-the-startling-1960s-theory-that-stonehenge-was-a-prehistoric-computer

Tuesday, September 1, 2026

Excitement

Razor clams stretching along the beach in  a strip ten metres wide and at least a mile long. Why the sea should throw them onto the sand in such large numbers is yet another of those mysteries that challenge the minds of early morning beach walkers. Dogs love the 'crunching' sound their paws make when they walk over them.


A very famous professional golfer out on the  links this morning. A man with his spaniel tries to take a surreptitious photograph.


Others are less surreptitious. Play backs up.


Back  in the village the cloud cover is beginning to give way to bright sunshine. It is remarkably warm so, for the moment, all thought of turning on the heating has gone. Still no sign of the spare part for the farmers hugely expensive ( and much prized ) cabbage machine.

There has been great excitement in town. Three Police cars were seen drawn up in a line near the church. It's rare to see one Police car let alone three. People stopped to gawp at the sight. Seems a shop owner had observed someone shoplifting. The paper this morning tells us a woman of 40 and a man of 49 have been  arrested. For the local dog owners this drama is the only topic of conversation.


Elgars calmest piece of music ? Ideal background as we enter the final third of the year :https://youtu.be/IwdeqVmXlHk?t=109

The Nepal disaster - some thoughts :https://rogerpielkejr.substack.com/p/what-actually-caused-the-nepal-disaster

An important election :https://x.com/PedderSophie/status/2093978196064506067

The comments about Copenhagen and Edinburgh halfway through were interesting. The rest is written in a modern style that I just don't get. When did UnConferences become a thing ? :https://benyeoh.substack.com/p/you-dont-know-who-you-need-to-meet


Monday, August 31, 2026

Tajik quality control.

A nip in the air this morning. We remain resolute in our determination not to turn on the heating until mid September. However, that mid September target may be adjusted to 'beginning of '.


The farmer is back to harvest the potatoes in the small triangular field that runs down to the sea. This small plot was 'overlooked' by the boys when they were here on Saturday. It seems that after darkness fell they were keen to head home for their dinner and 'forgot. this corner.


On our morning walk from the courtyard to the shore we stop to see what's going on. A group of cheerful Tajiks sit on a bench in a covered area at the back of the harvester. Here they can check for any damaged potatoes on a conveyor belt linked to a plough at the front of the machine . Approved potatoes then pass onto a hoist that disgorges them into boxes . The whole process busy but efficient. Youngest son races a small electric 4x4 across the field to see how fast it will go. His elder brother cheers him on. The Tajiks laugh.


A rather jazzy tartan kilt on a model in an outfitters window. There is a pashmina in the same tartan next to it. Ideal for couples who wish to their coordinate their outfits. The crimson bow tie does not improve matters. The tout ensemble has something of a popular stage and screen feel to it.

Sunday, August 30, 2026

Belonged.

Our excitement this morning is provided by a gull that has found a small washed up flounder in a pocket of water on the beach. The bird cannot believe its good fortune. It chortles with delight.

The colours of the world around us are changing. The sea whiter. The clouds darker. Scotland is settling into winter.


Out here a few weeks ago the village fields were a sea of green and gold waiting to be harvested. Now the colour has gone and the land is wind swept and stubbly and waiting to be ploughed. As recompense russet winter sunrises paint the morning air with an Arctic intensity. 

After a hectic Saturday night the potato harvest is in. Now all that remains is for the cabbages to be cut and packaged. There's still no sign of the replacement part for the farmers state of the art cabbage picking machine but he hopes to start again on Thursday. Next week his youngest son will be heading to Edinburgh with his elder brother so that each can buy a suitably conservative suit for college 'functions'. " The costs are endless " observes their father.


A memorial stone makes us stop and pause. 'JDG belonged here' etched into the paving . 'Belonged' is a powerful word. There's something intense about this use of language. Born here, taught here, studied here, lived here, married here would be expected but 'belonged' carries a different, deeper signifier. We're left wondering who JDG was, what made them feel they had such happy roots in this place, and what, if anything, happened to them. Why should you belong to one spot and not another ? The shortest epitaphs often hide the greatest mysteries.

Saturday, August 29, 2026

Pre-semester calm.

Cloudy and humid this morning. Nature is shifting towards autumn and the university is gearing up for the new academic year. The two timetables seem to meld together naturally . The French call this glide into September La Rentree and treat it as a kind of mini New Year.  In France the seasons shift slowly. Here it's much more sudden. 

A few fresh faced early bird students can be seen dragging wheelie bags towards their dorm rooms. New faculty go to 'welcome and induction' courses where they learn how to navigate the peculiar complexities of educational bureaucracy. They don't look happy going in and they don't look any happier coming out. The area  around the golf course remains busy with boisterous Labor Day visitors but 300 metres away the university end of town is not just quiet but deserted.  We wonder how many visiting golfers even know there's a medieval cathedral here.


Three horses and their riders are heading back to the farm after their canter back and forwards along the sand. We wave politely . The usual cast of dog owners are out and about but apart from them we have the place to ourselves. The rhythms of summer are ending and the routines of winter are quietly slipping into place.


We pass a medical school classroom where the IT department are working overtime to get all the systems running smoothly for the return of the youngsters. Something ever so slightly apocalyptic about the sight of an empty lecture theatre with no one in it but all the lights  on and the screens flickering away.


An eclectic mix of books on a table in the book shop. This week I've read a book about the small ice age and the rapid fall in European populations during the 6th century. Climate change has always been a thing.  I've now started on the 'Blood Dawn'  book about Asia in the 30's and 40's which is a subject I  knew nothing at all about. This week there are book readings by authors on subjects as varied as Agrippa, Persian cookery, Galician mysteries and Celtic poetry. A former Prime Minister will be here next Saturday. This will attract a large audience and due to the numbers will be held in a local church instead of the bookstore. In a small university town there is always something to do.


The last of the bees hard at work on the lavender. I thought they might be gone by now but a few soldier on. We see two Swallows darting low over the beach but the House Martins and Swifts seem to have preempted them and already headed off on the long journey south. Gulls, pigeons and crows have settled in for the duration. We see a dozen partridges in the potato field. When the seasons turn they really turn. Three young deer appear in the courtyard which is a source of delight.  Life, as you can probably tell, is gloriously dull amid the pre-semester calm. These days I'm all for living in a place that's dull.

Friday, August 28, 2026

A noble sentiment.

Who would ever have thought that Lake Ontario would feature prominently in the BBC's morning radio broadcast ? I check to make sure it's not April 1st.

Parking spaces in the medieval heart of St Andrews are designed for small cars. Modern models are much larger than their 1970'e era predecessors and their rear ends jut out far into the road . Driving through town is an obstacle course of dodging  oncoming traffic and parked super long SUV's. This stretched Land Rover is enormous. There are rumours that car parking charges may be levied on the length of the vehicle although this won't address the underlying problem. 


The church is getting ready for the Harvest Festival. Anywhere else in the world I'd think this was a peculiarly old fashioned tradition but not here. A hiker from Tennessee ( here to trace her Scots forebears ) studies a war memorial while the organist practices ' All is safely gathered in '. We buy tickets for the Harvest  barbecue. A case of wine has already been donated to help wash down the Smash burgers that are being made by the young American woman using the farmers rump steak. Older villagers are unsure about the concept of smash burgers but are willing to give them a try. " It's what young people eat " says the lady selling the tickets through slightly  pursed lips.  

The part for the cabbage harvester hasn't arrived and the farmer has now started on bringing in the potato crop. His two sons are still at home so he's keen to get as much done as he can while they're still around.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

The church although old is a bright cheerful place and the baptismal font is a simple thing of great beauty. One story says it was commissioned by a local family after their four year old son got lost in the woods. He followed the sound of the bells back to the church and safety. Another story says it commemorates the same four year old but after his death in a flying accident in 1926. The bells and the Royal Air Force crest carved on the front tell me that two stories may well be intertwined. Scottish churches may not have the grandeur of their English cousins but they make up for this with their simple intimacy. The names of two more of the same family's sons, both killed later in the Battle of Britain , are carved on a different memorial. 

Private Alex Hampton was in B Company of the Highland Cyclist Corps.  What in heavens name was that ? On the memorial brass the words 'How sleep the brave who sink to rest by all their country's wishes blest' . A noble sentiment for Alex and the other village lads. 


But 'Remembering you we will be brave and strong and meet the last adventure with a song ' might be less polished but more heartfelt.

Almost all of the family names inscribed on the memorial still live in the village which may explain why the building and its fixtures are so spruce. The scent of Pledge furniture polish doesn't so much fill the air as permeate it.

Thursday, August 27, 2026

Ethel.

A Republican Congressman interviewed on the radio tells us that the American President is 'uncommonly shrewd'. This is an unexpected take but sounds remarkably lucid. He then goes on to say' We are winning very big everywhere ' which is less eloquent. I'd like to say that listening to this all encompassing statement I feel my cares about the world ebb away like dew in the morning sun, but I don't. 

The sheep in the field by the mouth of the estuary are enjoying life. The grass is long and the weather mild. They'll stay here for another six or seven weeks before moving to more sheltered grazing well away from the coastal gales. The practical men who look after the golf links have names for all the sheep. Can you guess which one they call Ethel ? This  discovery makes us laugh aloud.


Each passing day brings more signs that the new semester is about to kick off. This morning the gardeners are busy watering the grass and trimming the flower borders outside chapel . They're whistling. When was the last time you heard people whistling ?


The hydrangeas outside the Classics department look as if they've enjoyed a long sunny summer.


It's the start of the American Labor Day holiday . The town has a 51st State feel to it. Helicopters clatter above us bringing the 1% from their Gulfstreams parked in Edinburgh to the 5 star hotels. By the club house teams of excited golfers are lined up ready for the off. We chat to the two third year medics who live next door to the wee house in town. They've got summer jobs as caddies and are  sharing their secrets of how to play the treacherous fairways with a group of  hedge fund managers from Stamford, Connecticut.  The hedgies seem keen to listen and the lads are hopeful they will be good tippers. They have adopted a caddying style that combines the deferential with the cheeky. The start of a new term brings with it all sorts of unexpected costs. One of them tells us 'freshers week' has really, really cool parties. We nod knowingly at this although neither of us has any idea what a 20 year old medic might think constitutes a cool party. It certainly won't be a bowl of fruit punch and a party hat.


I pop to the bookstore to pick up a new title ( that's been highly recommended ) and then stop for a coffee at the fancy new hotel near the aquarium. It's not warm but it's warm enough to sit outside and watch the world go by. The bar man is an early returning Classics student who doesn't complain when asked to bring my coffee outside. This willingness is a rarity in the local hospitality industry which thinks a warm welcome is 'What do you want ?'. 


Wednesday, August 26, 2026

A change of scenery

Dolly Parton dies, the Ontario Premier gives as good as he gets and heavy rain with flash flooding is forecast in England. The BBC announcer informs us that some American commentators think the US is ratcheting up the rhetoric on Canada to divert attention from the lack of progress on Iran.

Elder sister arrives, unannounced and uninvited, in the kitchen. Her younger sister, imprisoned in the farmhouse garden, can be heard howling in the distance. Our visitor gives us a tried and tested ' I know I shouldn't be here but if you could spare a biscuit I'd be eternally grateful ' look. She gets half a ginger hobnob. This sets the tail wagging.


More geese heading along the coast.They pass by in a never ending conveyor belt. The geese fly down from the Arctic in search of warmth. Some will over winter here, others further south in Northumberland.  Their honking is one of lifes transient pleasures. The telegraph wires are empty this morning. A sign that the well fed and rested swallows have finally set off on their long journey to Africa. 

The bee numbers continue to fall but a hardy cohort  still beaver away in the lavender. By the end of the month they too will have gone. In Scotland September is a time of the year when all the stage scenery changes.


No action in the cabbage field. The replacement part still hasn't been despatched.


Two paragliders take off from the sand and head towards town. Look carefully and you can just see them. They are soon up at a thousand feet. There's Russian activity out towards Norway so four jet fighters come hurtling across the sky on their way to deal with whatever's going on. 'The Font' wonders if the paragliders have logged their flight path with air traffic control .


Our old Fermob table and chairs from France have been repainted.  I can't remember the original colour being that strident. They get their first christening in a surprise shower.


Timely. Heard this at the Fox theatre in Atlanta 50 years ago :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ixrje2rXLMA

Rediscovered :https://e360.yale.edu/digest/spinach-pipefish-rediscovered

Unloved wild dogs :https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/africa-wild-dogs-most-hated-carnivores-continent-heres-how-conservationists-saving-them-anyway-180989287/

History can be strangely prescient  :https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/article/benedict-arnolds-invasion-of-canada/