A gentle resolute kindness

 Our last full day at sea. Tomorrow morning we shall be on our way to the airport and homeward bound.

The unhappy Italian tour group left the boat in Tromso. Their ' Why in heavens name did we book this tour ?' mood was not helped by the arrival of a 'warm' front bringing an hour or two of heavy, face stinging, sleet.  They were replaced by a large group of Chinese tourists in identical canary yellow track suits and orange baseball caps. The Chinese are the first off the ship at each port of call . They are divided ( for no immediately apparent reason ) into three groups and wear large stick on 1, 2 or 3 labels on their lapels. They photograph everything with a determination that puts European tourists to shame. Every town on our itinerary has a fishing museum and the Chinese visit each one with an unflagging enthusiasm. On the ship they eat in the pasta buffet although the braver among them have discovered the 'Bratwurst Special' in the Norwegian restaurant.

The two Irish musicians also left the boat in Tromso. They were replaced by two equally young Australians. One is tall and thin. The other isn't. Both have hair that is dyed red on top and blue at the sides. I originally thought this might be part of their stage act but am now coming round to the view that it may be the current 'thing' in Melbourne. Every day since they came on board they've worn what appear to be black pyjamas with the word P-L-E-I-N spelt out in large letters across the back. This 'The Font' informs me is an upmarket fashion brand. They perform in the night club at the front of the boat. 'Staider' travellers tend to steer well clear of the night club. It is lit by purple neon lights and is big on stainless steel furniture. It is very popular with heavily tattooed and equally heavily drinking North Sea oil workers heading too , or from, Stavanger. According to the on-board leisure guide Wayne and Henry take their audience on a journey of  Soul, Motown and disco music with sing along hits from the Supremes and James Brown. ' You will be captivated from start to finish !'

Tonight we shall be dining with the Arizonans. Over the last week and a half we've discovered more about them. They all live in Sedona. Some have lived there forever. Others , the majority, have moved there for the dry climate. In the last 18 months all have been diagnosed with one or other form of the big 'C' and are adjusting to this new stage in their lives. They've formed a sort of self help collective in the  belief a fear shared is a  fear halved. They're not wealthy but have decided to travel together while they can.  The Northern Lights were the first item on their bucket list. They may not have seen the lights but they've stood on the deck in the dark in a Force 10 gale and laughed as the waves broke over the bow and soaked them to the skin. They talk in a completely unembarrassed way about their health and their fears. At dinner they order caviar and ask how they should eat it. They go to wine tastings. Sometimes they drink too much champagne in the afternoon and skip dinner. We learn about concierge doctors and the cost savings of driving to Tijuana for medication. Their health insurance costs have soared. They have a gentle resolute kindness to them.