The strawberries are changing.

The curtain coming down on the summer. A new semester has started, the committee meeting at the R&A has drawn to a close and out here on the coast the farmers are baling the hay. Perhaps a dozen laggardly geese pass by. The weather is beautiful in that way it always is for arriving students. Give it a month and they will be wondering if the wind ever stops.

This morning there are 70 sparrows on the lawn. The breadcrumbs 'The Font' dutifully puts out first thing every morning  may, in large part, explain why we have record shattering numbers of sparrows and collar doves living in our gutters and hedges. The swallows and swifts may have gone but the starlings and sparrows will be our neighbours through the winter gales.

The strawberries from the hard working Polish lady have a whiteness to their flesh that says the hours of ripening daylight are shrinking ...fast. They are still delicious and we eat them with an enthusiasm that recognizes it won't be long before tasteless 'imports' are the only ones available. The Polish lady still thinks there's another three week growing season ahead. GLWT !

Her husband is experimenting with home grown tomatoes. They're better than the pallid, thick skinned tomatoes you can buy in the supermarket but they're not likely to be exported to France or Spain or anywhere that has more than a smattering of sunshine.

This mornings radio broadcast introduces us to the world of Ms Laura Loomer. How could we have remained ignorant of such a colourful personality ?

The shop in Paris where French President Macron buys his ties has two hotel rooms that you can  stay in overnight. How very French - Bed and breakfast and a tie. The website says they provide hot water which is either Gallic humour or extreme literalism :https://www.suitescinabre.com/en

Settling in

 

The bar by the station steps is covered in a riot of artificial flowers. The effect almost spectacular.  In the last couple of years Britain has been taken over by faux rose arches. It started in London , spread to the Cotswolds and then moved quickly North.  Even a small town like St Andrews now has three or four shop fronts festooned in plastic flowers.  I can't remember ever seeing them in France. They bring colour to climates where the wind would soon strip real flowers of their petals.

Old style floral decoration looks low key alongside.

This apartment above this wine bar must be fun. The higgeldy-piggeldy angles of this  mock Tudor architecture completely out of place in the straight lined grandeur of Edinburghs Georgian New Town.

The Ukrainian Consulate has a rather fine building.

The Russian consulate, although nearby, is not as grand. Over the years Angus has probably picked up forty Russian visas from this address. It is unlikely that he will cross this doorstep again.

Council mottos :https://jonn.substack.com/p/some-baffling-council-slogans

There's enough enthusiasm radiating from this to boil a kettle. A few doors down from the Wee House in town there's a rental property inhabited by three very determined young lady golfers. Next to them there's  a house shared by five rugby players. It can safely be said the street has become 'livelier' as they settle in. As we pass on our break of day walk  the sound of music hints that last nights party is still in full fling . There can be no doubting the students are back. Lectures start at nine tomorrow morning :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0vNoynBvaM

Alabama is not Springfield   :https://www.al.com/news/2024/09/haitians-fleeing-unrest-and-facing-exploitation-find-alabama-is-the-best-place-to-live.html

Change of plans

 

Another bright and sunny day. After a long walk on the beach we decide on the spur of the moment to take the train to Edinburgh. The train is due to depart at 09:23 and we get onto the platform as it's rolling in.

45 minutes later we're walking towards the Episcopal cathedral. An enjoyable and little visited barn of a place. It's been built with a trying too hard grandiosity that hints this isn't the major  denomination in these parts. A hundred and fifty years after it went up it still remains the tallest building in Edinburgh. Inside, the sun is creating magic through the stained glass windows. The organ casing is dappled with swirling psychedelic light. This gives it an entertaining Bach on acid vibe.

High on a wall there's a truly kitsch and truly enormous Edwardian painting of Jesus appearing ( in the artists imagination ) at the cathedrals dedication ceremony. The Messiah humbly has his back to us but all the members of the cathedral clergy are pictured, head on or in profile, in their finest robes. The Dean and the bishop take pride of place although they look a little miserable considering what's going on. The picture has sensibly been placed where tourists are unlikely to see it. How tastes have changed.

Being an Episcopal Cathedral there's also a modern abacus like sculpture. No Episcopal cathedral is complete without a modern sculpture. We can't find any sign to tell us who made it or what it's about. Both of us think it's quite 'jolly' although this may not be the response the artists hoped for. Dusting it is clearly a problem.

At the Georgian House on Charlotte Square they've got an exhibition of  Allan Ramsay portraits. In a corner of the gallery there's a dress dating from the 1790's. It was recently discovered wrapped up in a drawer in an attic. Despite being 250 years old it looks remarkably fresh. The curator tells us it's been on display for two months and in her view it's already starting to  suffer from exposure to the light. It won't be on display much longer. 

After lunch in the new shopping centre we head back to the station. The train departure for our return is punctual to the  second. 

This morning the sunrise promises another bonny day ahead.

Misty :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Det_RDhsRlQ

Sunglasses in Brazil :https://theholdupproblem.com/2024/09/10/buying-sunglasses-in-brazil-or-how-to-restore-commitment-in-bargaining/

I'm impressed but also somewhat alarmed by this. What else could those drones get up to ? :https://x.com/CGMeifangZhang/status/1834049931537170441

Harry and George

The sight of a young man walking along the road in a chicken costume a sign that St Andrews is rapidly transitioning from a golfing destination into a 'college' town.

Another beautiful ( but chilly ) morning. We head along the coast to look at a little coastal church the farmers wife has said is beautiful and worth visiting.

When we get there we find the place locked. Three little House Martins peer at us from their nest in the roof of the church porch.

From nowhere two gentlemen appear in the churchyard behind us. 'We've been up a ladder ' says one. " Cleaning out the gutters " says the other. They turn out to be Harry ( 82 ) and George ( 83 1/2 ). Harry has a baseball cap. Their wives are in the Church Hall making jam. They ask if we'd like to see inside. Harry is a bit of a wit. He points to the sign telling us there's been a church here since 1243. " God wanted it to be ready by one o'clock. It got finished just in time'.  Both gentlemen chuckle contentedly. How many times must this attempt at a joke have been cracked ? Harry roots around in his rucksack and finds the church key which he hands to George. Both of them complain about the House Martins. ' I'm forever washing poop off the porch floor ' says George in what is clearly faux irritation. There's no doubting the church routine revolves around the young birds. Both men stand looking upwards at the nest while making soft chirruping noises. They do this in an unselfconscious way as if it's the most natural thing in the world to converse with House Martins. When you're in your eighties you can do what you want. George tells us this will be the second brood of the season and their departure is expected sometime next week. They will - I'm certain - be missed by their two guardians.

The two gentlemen fill us in on the history of the place. The kirk has a congregation of forty or so. More if the weather's good, fewer if there's a gale blowing in from the sea. So far this year they've had six christenings which after a few lean years they both think is wonderful. " The young parents want a grounding ". Harry is particularly proud of the fact that the woman who played the harp at the Kings coronation came and gave a concert here. ' The place was packed'. The church has a choir and an organist but if the organists back is playing up they've got a Boom Box and a tape of ' Your 25 Favourite Scottish Hymns' as an alternate source of music. George is supposed to take the Boom Box home with him after the Sunday service in case anyone tries to steal it but he's doubtful anyone in their right mind would want it. " They've got better electronics than that these days ". The tape has become stretched so they're thinking of buying a replacement.

Before we leave we're shown a wooden plaque commemorating a local family who lost three sons in the last war. All were in the RAF. " We're proud of them " says Harry in a tone of voice that could make you forget they died before he was born. The family still live in the big house at the end of the churchyard. After the culling of the sons in the late unpleasantness it's a different branch who live there now. George informs us that there's gravel blocking the drains in the Church Hall kitchens. ' Clearing it out will be our job this afternoon '.

It can safely be said that Scottish identity has not been entirely subsumed by globalization. The Celts may have lost their giants but they still treasure their heroes.

Another of those things I'd never thought about :https://www.history.com/news/when-did-the-white-flag-become-associated-with-surrender

On the radio this piece by a composer we've never heard of :https://youtu.be/j7sD0AqrpZ0

Geese and Spanish architects.

 

Three hundred geese, maybe four hundred, overnighting in the recently harvested wheat field outside 'The Fonts' cabin. They honk in irritation as we wander down  the track that leads to the shore. Irritated geese can make a dickens of a noise.

The lady with the Pomeranian is already on the beach but we're too early for Archie the arthritic labrador. In fact we pretty much have the place to ourselves. Seems the tourist season is well and truly over. It will be three hours before the students make an appearance. Ten am is the time when they start to stir. 

In the next village along the coast the fishmonger is already busy.

We consider Monkfish and Halibut but opt for Lemon Sole and wild Salmon tail.

The Spanish architects on their study tour are still in town.

There seem to be a lot of them wandering around . We pass a dozen of these groups of twenty standing looking upwards at obscure architectural detailing . Whatever must they make of this bizarre little town ? Someone has warned them about the Scottish weather and they are all well - and practically - dressed against the elements. The Spanish architects chat excitedly away and seem happy.

How tariffs work :https://x.com/dieworkwear/status/1833725667554607176

RAND on Russia :https://www.rand.org/pubs/commentary/2024/09/russia-explained-what-americans-need-to-know.html

In quad we meet one of the members of the R&A who has been on business in the States arranging a Senate golf tournament. While there he was invited to 'Swingers' to experience the future of golf :https://washington.org/find-dc-listings/swingers-crazy-golf-club . It was not the sort of place senior members of the R&A usually venture into  and has left him with mild but residual culture shock. ' God forfend we get a Swingers here ' his take on what he's seen. Work starts on upgrading the old cinema to a 'Sports bar complex' next week. Is this what Tiger Woods and Justin Timberlake have in mind for our local cinema ?

Gusty.

A slow start to our day. There's a traffic jam. The dustbin men have arrived in the village at the same time as the window cleaner / chimney sweep. We wait patiently as the bins are emptied. The chimney sweep gets out of his van and asks us if we want our chimneys swept while he's out this way.

It was gusty yesterday. The wind blowing at 50 mph. One of the oil supply boats is still at anchor in the bay. Does this signal that more 'weather' might be on its way ?

In town the first Christmas advert we've seen.

2,500 freshers have now settled in. This weekend the other 7,500 students will show up. I'm not sure there's anywhere else in the world that (relative to its size )  sees its population go through such a sudden seasonal shift. The emotional parents that were much in evidence earlier in the week now seem to have moved on. The freshers are at that stage where they are in the process of making new friends. They move around town in groups. They also consult maps which strikes us as amusing in a place with three streets.

The chaplain has a timely reminder for the incoming youngsters.

The price of Taco Bells varies enormously :https://taconomical.com/

Emotion much in evidence.

There is a blast of Arctic air on its way. The BBC weather forecast says it may fall to just above freezing tomorrow night. That's unseasonal even by Scottish standards. On the Old Course this morning we note that the caddies are all wearing sensible woolen hats. There are also oil service vessels steaming into the bay seeking shelter from the coming winds.

Town is humming. A combination of freshers, parents, school groups and tourists  combine to create a happy vibe. 

Students are learning that queuing is a big part of academic life. There must be three hundred youngsters lined up outside chapel waiting to get their photos taken and ID cards issued. They have been given specific times to show up but being students they all show up at once. The braver of the boys try to strike up conversations with the girls next to them in line.

Emotional farewells much in evidence. Outside Starbucks one poor American woman sits sobbing over her latte. The embarrassed husband tries to console her by helpfully pointing out that their daughter will be home again in three months . This fails to have a calming effect. His  next line 'Scotlands not that far away' also fails to brighten her mood - in fact it seems to add fuel to the emotional fire. Parents of male offspring seem to be less prone to such tearful farewells. A group of visiting Spanish architects on a study tour wander around oblivious to the dramas unfolding around them. They take photos and turn their eyes upwards to take in ancient crenelations. 

The car dealer sends us an e-mail to say that ' your vehicle will be built during week 42 of the year and delivered some time within the 6 weeks following '. Who knew it took so long to make a car ? With the benefit of hindsight we should just have bought one of the black ones they had in stock. When the new car does finally get delivered we may try to head up North to have dinner here :https://lundies.scot/the-house

How names change :https://www.edwest.co.uk/p/there-are-no-more-chads-in-england

900 years and 900 geese.

We're woken at first light by a huge flock of geese flying right over the last wee house before Denmark.  They're flying low and have to pull up to avoid the chimney pots. For thirty seconds the air pressure changes with the beat of their wings. 

At the strawberry farm the Polish lady behind the counter thinks they'll be able to carry on harvesting the crop until mid-October. Seems it's not been hot enough for the plants to have been stressed so they continue to fruit away, quietly and profitably. The strawberry farm have diversified and have now started to sell their own potatoes which are as different from supermarket potatoes as it's possible to be.

Sunday was a 'Doors open day' around here. All sorts of places that are usually closed to the public are opened up.  In the late afternoon we stop off at the little church by the air base. It's almost five and we half expect the place to be locked and the guides to have gone home.

To our surprise the place is still open. An extremely lucid lady and a knowledgeable gentleman of a certain age in a beige linen suit are closing up.  To save time they suggest that we ask questions and they'll do their best to answer them. We discover that

1) The church was built around 1150 on a hill in what was then a swamp

2) It is one of a handful of Romanesque churches in Scotland

3) It is built of white limestone that was shipped all the way from from Caen. 

4) The tower is at the East rather than the West End which is exceedingly unusual.

5) A fine collection of 900 year old gargoyles are still in place scaring away evil spirits.

On the inside the kirk is a bit like Rosslyn Chapel. Old, unusual and with the wry  feeling of a place that's hiding a great secret. It seems tiny to modern eyes but 900 years ago the architecture would have seemed breathtakingly large and modern.

We spend an hour being shown around by the two parishioners.  They have a love for this strange old building that suggests its future is - for now at least - safe.

This being Scotland there are no signs to alert the passing visitor to this architectural treasure. History in these parts is quiet and uncommercial. 

Some 'fun' in the Scottish heartlands. To sit by the river is heaven  :https://www.thetaybank.co.uk/

Atlanta finally gets a world class hotel :https://forthatlanta.com/

Sometimes a bit wordy but this substack always makes me think. This Elon Musk/Donald Trump take on elite human capital is worth reading :https://www.richardhanania.com/p/elite-human-capital-is-not-just-iq

Danish music on the car radio :https://youtu.be/MWoJ7KpTXjw

Tagging along.

Once again the village starts its day swathed in thick sea fog but inland it's warm and sunny. The geese are still doing their thing. Down by the Old Course there's not a cloud in the sky and the golfers with seven am tee-off times can't believe their luck. 

In Starbucks a Canadian couple are having a spirited argument. They've bought one of the expensive apartments overlooking the 18th hole. They now discover that  VIP stands have gone up and residents on the first three floors have no view. " Why did we fly all this way to look at some scaffolding ?" asks the wife. The way she actually phrases this is a little more demonstrative.

Looking back along the road towards the apartments we think her irritation might be justified.

On the course the unusual sight of a man playing golf with three buddies. The mans wife, two daughters and a son-in-law are following on behind. The son-in-law is filming every moment. What the caddies must think of having the family tag along is best left to the imagination. Come to that the ' buddies' don't look too happy.

The weather has been good for the King and the villagers who have gone to compete :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoxtndEaO6w

More than you ever need to know about ear lobes :https://www.popsci.com/science/why-do-humans-have-earlobes/

Today we shall be driving down the coast to visit Kirkcaldy which was the home of Adam Smith the economist. It's a doors open day and the church there is having guided tours. Right on cue this book has just been published :https://mitpress.mit.edu/9780262548786/religious-influences-on-economic-thinking/

What stories this little photo could tell.

In town the trickle of arriving students has turned into a steady flood. The fast trains from London arriving at the station full to bursting with fresh ( and nervous ) 18 year old faces. Last night we heard the sound of fireworks from across the water. The first of the freshers ceilidhs ?

The students may be arriving but out here on the coast the geese are leaving. Wave after wave after wave of them flying low along the coast.

 

The bronze age burial mound  seems to be some sort of honing point. Small flocks of six or twelve geese ( almost always six bit occasionally twelve, very rarely four ) come skimming over the wall where they circle, land and wait for other groups to join them.

This goes on all day. Even when the sea mist rolls in. When the time is right and they're rested and fed the geese head off in cohorts of forty or fifty.

Our first September here we'd just returned from France and didn't know whether we were coming or going. Last September the builders were hard at work and we'd moved into the house in town. This is the first year we've had a chance to really observe what's going on around us. There was a fear that life at the end of the farm track would be the height of boredom. Far from it. This morning the young lecturer (  recently returned from the house swap in Germany ) is out watching the geese and the Swifts with her toddlers. Her husband is inside having a long lie in and enjoying the weekend break from school run duty. She tells us the Swifts fly as high as 18,000 feet, pair for life and bathe by circling over and over thousands of feet up in the falling rain. On their long four week migration they fly when asleep.  There is something of the poet in her description. She tells me medieval Scots used to think Swifts were the departing souls of children - which is a very 'village' like Saturday morning conversation.

The wee house in town throws up some surprises. The plumbers have been in servicing the boiler. They find some old photos behind a partition wall. This one is of the towns second cinema ( now long demolished ) . I'm guessing ( the clues being two Home Guardsmen on the pavement by the cinema entrance and the RAF corporal in the middle of the group ) that this photograph was taken in the late summer of 1940. There's one student in his gown but I think that others must be bored Polish pilots from the Dunino airbase. They're barely out of their teens but between September 1939 and May 1940 their world had changed in ways they couldn't even have imagined. What stories this little picture could tell.