Friday, September 1, 2023

A glass of Sancerre.

 

After his visit to the tailor Angus has three hours to spend in Edinburgh before the early afternoon LNER back north.


Time for a pleasant saunter through the gardens stopping on the way to look at the Scots American war memorial. 


It's now looking rather the worse for wear. Closer examination shows that the sandstone is weathering with the outer layers slowly peeling away . The monument  exudes a gentle air of benign neglect - probably because war memorials tend to lapse out of fashion and possibly because the concept of the Scots American has faded over the intervening century.


The memorial was designed, in the 1920's, in the Regionalist style by an artist from Philadelphia. It's way up there with Grant Woods in terms of quality. The freeze at the back shows fishermen, coal miners,  shepherds and office workers striding along, rallying to the call. The demographic profile of a country that was half agrarian and half industrial. Every face different. Some smiling, some scowling. The all too knowing face of the father walking with his hand on his sons shoulder  is remarkable. All of human knowledge is in that 'Will I return' look. Ten thousand people probably pass this frieze every day without so much as giving it a glance.


The artist thought it was his best piece of work and wanted his heart to be buried underneath it. I wonder if this was allowed ? :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T71Ccf_k864


Then back along Princes Street and on to the National Portrait gallery. The ground floor cafe is crowded but the galleries are nearly empty. Food takes precedence.  The building is like something out of Harry Potter but on steroids. There are lots of little crannies where the sunshine ( a rare commodity for much of the year) does magical things. The lights in the entry hall are unlike anything I've ever seen.


The train goes at 2:30. Time for some dressed crab and a glass of Sancerre in the Cafe Royal restaurant. One of Edinburghs best kept secrets and a Victorian interior that's been left largely untouched. The waiter chats to me about the rugby. We both agree that France or New Zealand are likely to win and that ( miracles excepted ) Scotland won't.






12 comments:

Liz Hamblyn said...

I think that you are elevating New Zealand's All Black chances of winning the world cup beyond those of local supporters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQS2RriUzVk

jabblog said...

The frieze is wonderful.

Anonymous said...

I still haven’t worked through the groups and routes, but, on quality of rugby, it should be France or Ireland.

I will have the joy of next weekend in Marseilles😳.

Did you know all that about the memorial before you visited, Angus?

WFT Nobby said...

Thanks for highlighting the fine war memorial.
On current form, England would need more than a miracle to win the Rugby World Cup...

Yamini MacLean said...

Hari OM
Landing in a pool with SA and Ireland feels a bit odds stacked against Scotland - but there is always hope!

I love visiting the portrait gallery when over in Auld Reekie and agree that it feels a little 'fictional'. YAM xx

~Kim at Golden Pines~ said...

What an impressive memorial, in both its detail and design. And I think you are right, as time passes, history fades in the collective memory for whatever reason. I hope this one survives despite its benign neglect.

Charlotte said...

I like the building that the Cafe Royal is in.

Diaday said...

Ahhhh, Sancerre. One of my favorites! Cheers to you and thank you for taking us on a stroll around Edinburgh. The war memorial touches the heart.

Coppa's girl said...

The Victorian interior housing the National Portrait Gallery is so much at odds with new, recently built Art Galleries. These old places are often of more interest than the treasures they display.
The War Memorial is quite incredible, what a tragedy if it's allowed to deteriorate even more.

Jake of Florida said...

Three hours in Edinburgh with Angus. What a delight for all the senses! The memorial is so stoic but emotional...and the video is thrilling to me, with mention of the St Andrews Society of Philadelphia (my hometown) founded in 1747. As for the dressed crab and Sancerre? Perfect. Thank you.

The Bougalou Bear said...

The War Memorial indeed tugs at the heart.

I wonder if you ever travelled through the Gare de l'Est in Paris. In the Hall des Départs,there is a wonderfull painting by the american artist Albert Herter, entitled "Le départ des poilus, 2 Août 1914". Herter, who lost a son in the conflict, gifted it to the train company in 1926, in memory and tribute to his son and all the soldiers who left for the front lines from the station, never to return.
Although not intended as a War Memorial, it has the same melancholy quality as the Edinborouh Memorial

I must add that it has been recently restored and lovingly maintained. History, perhaps, doesn't fade away as much as we think.
I hope the same happens with this War Memorial

Anonymous said...

I love the portrait gallery, I was there a month ago.