Friday, August 30, 2024

Off the beaten track.

The King is at Balmoral so a lot of the small quiet roads have been closed off by the Royal Protection Squad. We discuss a route across the hills with one of the ghillies at the hotel and set off early to Craigievar . When we get there twenty German motor cyclists are waiting in the courtyard for a tour of the interior. There's a brisk wind blowing and they have sensibly opted to keep their bike gear on. After inspecting the new harling and being suitably impressed with its quality, we leave. The National Trust have done an excellent job. They reharl every 15 years - which is an expensive undertaking. One of the reasons we left Scotland twenty years ago was the constant battle of keeping an old house harled and lime mortared against the elements.

Further down the road we take a detour towards an old church. A faded Church of Scotland sign poking out of the rosebay willowherb tells us we're going the right way. This place looks as though its been in use for millenia rather than centuries. There's a brief link to it here :https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/strathdon/kildrummykirkyard/index.html


The church is built like a house but with a bowed end wall. Neither of us has ever seen anything quite like it. At one end there's a belfry with a bell that's pulled by a long metal chain . This dangles down to the ground and clunks and clanks in the August wind.


The porch of the old chapel on the hill above has been around since long before the reformation.


It's full of medieval tombstones. Others are set in the remaining walls of the old medieval kirk. Others are used as paving slabs.


We're there for an hour. No one bothers us. In fact there's not another human to be seen. It goes without saying that there's not a single sign to tell us anything about the history of the place. There's a solitary Commonwealth war grave which is in black granite. I thought all war graves were in standard white limestone. Guess limestone would soon erode in this climate. We set off for lunch at the local inn - but it's full :https://kildrummyinn.co.uk/restaurant/  We'll try again in the Spring.

Into Ballater for lunch. Ballater has a good art gallery. It also is the dog capital of the Highlands. The sun makes our acquaintance - briefly.


This promise of sunshine is enough for people - and their companions - to go and sit outside.


The old station has been turned into an efficient coffee shop. Queen Victorias waiting room has been kept as a tourist attraction. The coffee shop ( indeed all hotels and restaurants this far north in Scotland ) is staffed by enthusiastic youngsters. What will happen when they return to university in a couple of weeks time ?


Putting the 'park' in Park Avenue :https://x.com/MarkLevineNYC/status/1828518023180775574

AI has its uses :https://gizmodo.com/ai-herculaneum-scrolls-computer-vision-transformers-2000481322

Written in difficult academic English but it seems social media isn't good for our children. In fact it's not good at all :https://www.afterbabel.com/p/the-case-for-causality-part-1



7 comments:

WFT Nobby said...

The Kildrummy kirk and kirkyard look worth a detour. I've not visited there, but I do know Ballater well! Although I would agree the town is a contender for Dog Capital of the Highlands, I think the main reason the customers of that particular cafe are sitting out on the street is that (unusually) it does not welcome dogs inside.
Cheers, Gail.

Linda said...

The stone for Commonweath Grave stones varies according to location. In France they're Portland stone, but in my village cemetery, 40 miles west of Ballater, they're made of grey granite.

jabblog said...

Queen Victoria's waiting room is quite splendid.

Coppa's girl said...

I like the picture in the art gallery. Were you tempted to buy anything? I also like the photo of the Labrador waiting patiently with it's owner - brings back happy memories of my own Labs.

Yamini MacLean said...

Hari Om
I haven't stopped in Ballater since the station cafe fire. Must return to see the rebuild. YAM xx

Travel said...

I need to get at it and book Scotland for next spring, after the cruise.

Lisa in France said...

I worked on Park Avenue for many years, first as a secretary and later as a lawyer. It is still a beautiful street, especially when the holiday lights are up on the trees, but it was very interesting to read about both the past and the future plan. I am feeling nostalgic for Scotland today. My son left yesterday to pack up his apartment in Glasgow and then drive down to London, where he will be studying this year. BA somehow lost his luggage between Heathrow and Glasgow so today he was out in town buying some emergency clothes. He called in to report, and I could hardly hear him for the bagpipes. I guess my husband and I will need to go back on our own if we want to see the rest of the country.