Friday, August 16, 2024

Pastures new.

After the balmy Mediterranean weather of the last three days we're back to the reality of living in Scotland. Before we've even opened the bedroom curtains the sound of the rain beating against the windows tells us there's an Atlantic storm heading our way. This morning it's chilly - as in time to put on a jumper - chilly. A couple of weeks and the heating will need to be turned on.


This week we're using the last of the long days to head out and discover new places to eat. With one or two exceptions the restaurants in St Andrews have gone downhill since we arrived. Brexit made finding kitchen and front of house staff difficult while Covid closures layered on debt. £120 tasting menus have become a thing in the fancier places in town but they fail to impress. In general peak season prices have doubled since 2022 while quality has gone in the opposite direction. I'm guessing we'll see a couple of well known names close after the summer season is over.


We set off south down the coast to a little fishing village in search of a place that the locals say good things about. The restaurant nestles on the waterfront at one end of a long sweeping harbour. Parking is a nightmare. Medieval streets and modern cars do not make happy bedfellows. Finally, we find a spot on top of the hill. It's a five minute walk but the rain has eased to a drizzle.


The restaurant menu, posted outside the door, is just about discernible through the rain.


The fish, as you might expect in these parts, is as fresh as you could get anywhere. In this case it's travelled all of a hundred yards since it was landed four hours ago.


Heading back to the car we find another, less grand, place to eat. 


I thought the tables in the restaurant we just visited were close to the sea but here the tables are almost in the water. What a place to sit outside, eat crab and watch the sunset ( clouds willing ).


After two years of settling in we find the fish , meat and vegetables to be as good as anything you'd find in France. In some cases ( meat and vegetables ) they're better. What we miss is the fresh fruit. Peaches, which Angus used to live on for three months of the year, arrive in these northern parts chilled. They soon develop  the texture of wood chippings. 'The Font' has had to throw out six this week. My other great favourite - Victoria pineapples - are unknown here. 



13 comments:

WFT Nobby said...

The jumper was dragged out of the wardrobe here in Aberdeen yesterday too. One restaurant that has maintained, perhaps even improved, its standards and kept prices at not-too-exorbitant levels is the:long established Silver Darling at the mouth of Aberdeen harbour. I joined friends for an 89th birthday lunch there last week and the food (predominantly fish and seafood) was all delicious, the service excellent and the setting, by a picture window overlooking harbour and beach) very fine. Recommended!

The Life of Riley said...

Perhaps now is the time for you and "The Font" to plant a peach tree in your newly designed garden, or at the back of your home so you have the freshest tastiest peaches to enjoy!

Coppa's girl said...

How disappointing that some of your restaurants are steadily going downhill. I hope it's not a case of feeding the tourists any old rubbish, they won't know any different, then wonder why no-one comes.
If you have a conservatory you could plant your peach tree in there, crank up the heating and hope for the best. It's no consolation, I know, but the fruit here is very hit and miss, and I throw away two or three peaches and nectarines each week. I still buy more in the hope that the next ones will return to their former succulence, but so far they are few and far between. The lack of water due to the prologned drought is partly to blame.

Angus said...

Life of R - Lovely idea but I fear a peach tree would last all of 30 seconds in this climate.

jabblog said...

I'm intrigued by the wellington boots - a memorial or a celebration or a quirky way to display flowers?

Lisa in France said...

You are so right - I have been living on peaches and nectarines these past few months, including the flat peaches I used to wonder about in your photos from France. I loved peaches as a child in New Jersey, but in Japan, peaches were very expensive and the ones the Japanese seem to like best are very large, not very flavorful white peaches that have to be peeled. Now I have to look out for the Victoria pineapples. I am sorry to read that the restaurants in St. Andrews are slipping. There were some very good places when we visited, including a fish restaurant you mentioned in a post. The most memorable thing, however, was a boat full of lobsters in (I think) Anstruther. We tried to buy one but were told they were all headed for France. It is possible that I was able to persuade my husband to move to France based solely on that encounter.

Anonymous said...

In their not-yet-constructed hot house?

Yamini MacLean said...

Hari Om
Ah St Monans... And all similar Fife coast towns... Are a proper challenge for The Grey to negotiate. We gave up at a couple of them. One can truly overdose on quaint, though! YAM xx

Travel said...

I think there is still a lot of change coming in the restaurant business.

waterdog said...

I too am curious about the boots with flowers. Does the arrangement possibly contribute to the meaning?

Coppa's girl said...

As long as that!!!

Angus said...

For all those asking about the Wellington Boots - https://www.welcometofife.com/view-business/st-monans-welly-boot-garden

Anonymous said...

What wonderful places you visit! Local peaches have just arrived at the neighborhood grocery store.Generally at their best for three weeks, so I will be going to the store regularly during that time to enjoy them daily-sometimes two a day.